se laisser vivre

Ad Bibentum

2008-06-20T18:13:00.001+01:00

Ad Bibendum

18th May 2008

This was a wine merchant I came across via a book of Belgium suppliers. It pretty much turned out to be the top Belgium non French based source of great wine. They have a shop in Brussels but the heart of business seems to be via direct internet sales supplied from their warehouse in St Trudien. It was here that we headed for their Spring Wine Tasting. The company is the creation of two brothers, Johan & Bjorn Monard. They are from a big wine family as there father is famed as the best importer of Bordeaux in Belgie.

www.adbibendum.be

Australian Whites

Rolf Binder
Helios Semillon
Barossa Valley
2007

As the label suggests this is a 100% Semillon from one of the better Barossa producers. Oaky new world modern style with creamy nose. The expected toasty vanilla flavours are supported by a apple and lime. OK. 7/10. €11.01.

Frankland Estate
Frankland River Region
Western Australia
www.franklandestate.au

Isolation Ridge
Chardonnay
2006

Lighter more refined nose. Hints only of cream. More forward on the taste with too much oak influence. Too much creamy ice cream. OK. 7/10. €14.52

Cooladerra Vineyard
Riesing
2007

A much better Riesling from the Western Australian producer. Classic petrol nose. It sounds a bit strange but petrol is a good and typical nose for Riesling. Good citric fruit on the taste. Full flavoured and good layers that develop in the mouth. Very good. 8.5/10. €15.37

Leeuwin Estate
Margaret River
Western Australia
www.leeuwinestate.au

Art Series
Riesling
2006

From a well known winery and the famed Aussie Art Series range. This is 100% Riesling and although I am normally a fan of the style I wasn’t that impressed with this. Closed unresponsive nose but this may be because of the youth of the wine. Some gooseberry hints which is not normally a Riesling trait. Tarty. Well made but not my idea of a Riesling. 6.5/10. €14.64.

Prelude Vineyards
Chardonnay
2006

This is from the second tier label from the winery. The nose suggests a more citric feel than one dominated by new oak. The oak is more richer on tasting. Good substance. Forward. Lacks a little elegance. Good. 7.5/10. €22.75

Celebratory Blend
Chardonnay
2005

This 100% Chardonnay is a limited edition made especially for Ad Bib to make their 10th anniversary. 7000 bottles only produced. More noticeable oak on the nose. Full of typical new world flavours with tropical fruit, pineapple mango. Creamy soft style. Good balance and complexity of flavours. Very good. 8/10. €35.70

Art Series
Chardonnay
2004

Restrained elegant nose. Hints of flavours, oak and tropical fruit, but in restraint. Thick creamy texture. Darker hue than many of others. Tropical fruit on taste. Long complex finish. Oak layers also there but in balance. Built to develop over the next 10-20 years so still very young. Very good/ excellent. 8.5/10. €59.84.

Pierro
Chardonnay 2001
Margaret River, WA

Known as one of the top WA Chardonnay. Tropical fruit abound on the nose here. Gooseberry and pinenut come through in an intense fruity hit. Oak is also in appearance and a good creamy texture laps through. Very good. 8/10. €44.77

Artevino

2008-05-19T16:05:00.002+01:00

Antevino

Achterstraat 140
2980 St. Antonius (Zoersel)
T: +32 3 340 89 49
F: +32 3 340 89 48
info@artevino.be

We attended a wine tasting as a present from Nancy’s brother, and headed off with Nancy’s Mum and Dad. The wine shop is housed in a smart newly built premises. Talking to the young owner he started the business when he was 17 and its now slowly expanding. It has a good coverage and mainly stocks less well known wineries and some more unusually areas as well. We did go on a Saturday afternoon and with the same person pouring the wine and also managing the shop it was a bit stop and start but we weren’t in a hurry.

Maankloof
Chardonnay
2004
Western Cape
South Africa

This was the opening wine and was very much a special offer, 20% off at the moment. Full on oak nose that blasted past any other flavour. The taste was similarly over extracted. You could almost taste the oak chips. A wine for people who don’t like wine! Rubbish. 6/10. $5.50 (with current 10% off)

McPherson
Chardonnay
2007
Victoria
Australia

I thing after this one he realised that we weren’t great fans of new world Chardonnay (Nancy excepted). This was a considerable improvement than the first. Oak is still there but some fruit does come through. Full of tropical mango, pineapple and a touch of grapefruit. A bit too much fruit and too forward. OK. 7/10. €7.49

Mount Nelson
Sauvignon Blanc
2004
Marlborough
New Zealand

Light almost water coloured. Fruits coming through include grapefruit and gooseberry. The sharpness is really evident. Acidic but in balance. Tropical flavours and a tangy edge to it. The winery here is controlled by Antiriori, the famed Tuscany house. Not my favourite style but again good to ok. 7.5/10. €13.29

Pfaffl
Wien 1
2006
Vienna
Austria

This is most unusually an Austrian white wine blend, this being made up of Riesling, Gruner Veltiner and Pinot Blanc. Light and crisp. The nose has some clan fruit but has much more subtly and elegance. Hints of the tell tale petrol give away the Riesling. Mineriality and citric fruit with a finish of apple. Very good. 8.5/10. €9.53

Viña Trewa
Syrah Reserva
Maule Valley, Chile
2003

This Chilean Syrah was rather disappointing. It was full on the nose nd had a tannin prelude but then flatten out very quickly. Weak and dull. 6.5/10. €7.68

Raka
Biography
2005
Stanford
South Africa

This a new winery but already seems to be winning awards. Its owner is Piet Dreijer, who was originally a fisherman, Raka being the name of his first boat. His wines are made by Daniëlla van Rensburg. This is 100% Shiraz. Deep but clear red. Spice and pepperon the nose. Dark fruit with a good structure. Some tannins to hold the fruit on. Very good. 8.5/10. €14.69.

Raka
Figurehead
2004 Stanford
South Africa

This is a mainly a Bordeaux blend, lead by 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and then Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the key difference is that it has 14% Pinotage. Much more openly fruity. Spicy nose. White pepper. Some tannins to add to the complexity. Good. 8/10. €13.25

Pérez Cruz
Cot Limited Edition (Malbec)
2003
Maipo Valley
Chile

Cot, or Malbec as its known outside of France, is normally championed across the Andes in Argentina so its unusual to see from Chile. It shouldn’t be as this was a fine and complex wine. Floral and full of herbs and spice. Good complexity. Very good. 8.5/10. €15.48

Tishbi
Shiraz Estate
2005
Zichron-Yaakov
Israel

I was intrigued by the wine from this winery as had never tasted Israeli wine beforeand was very happy when our hosts opened a bottle for us to taste. Dark. Tight red cassis fruit. Cherry. Spicy and black pepper. A good body and enough tannic structure to be a good food wine. A pleasant surprise. Very good. 8.5/10. €18.80.

Back to Perpignan

2008-05-19T13:50:00.002+01:00

Last week it was back to Perpignan for a few days. I worked down there for 10 months last year but haven't been back since February. Much the same as when down there before. The rebuilding of the old cinema in the centre hadn't got much further. It is the oldest cinema in France and is meant to be being renovated but I really haven't seem much change in the lasy year.

I stayed in the centre and eat out a couple of times, once to an old friend and once to a new restaurant.

Tuesday it was the the famous Casa Sansa, of which you can see previous posts. I went with a French colleague and he was also suitably impressed. Had the rack of lamb. Yum! Had a new wine that was there choice of the month, last year there monthly choice remained unchanged for whole of my time down there.

L'Esprit Singla
Domaine de Besombes
Cotes du Roussillon 2004

Dark deep red. Blackberry brambly nose with a richness of cream. Tight chewy big food wine. Dark bitter cocoa. Am not sure of the cepages but imagine Grenache is in the main. Very good. 8.5/10. 18€ in restaurant and 7.95€ in Carrefour.

The other one was Le Gastro, also in the centre but this time the otherside of the small river that runs through Perpignan. Not seen before so assume its new. Seemed very good. Busy but staff all friendly. Had the fixed 25€ menu consisting of a mushroom and fois gras salad, and the duck breast.

Am back down again in a few weeks and looks like I will need to be down roughly one week a month.

Great Chablis

2008-05-06T20:27:00.003+01:00

I'm in Belgium all this week. Working from home but its really enjoyable to gain or the extra time that that enables. No travelling time to work. And I can go running at lunch time. A certain golden retreiver seems to be enjoying it as well. Though her snoring can cause a bit of embarrisment when taking important calls!

I have done many wine postings for a while but I have a few which will go into a later blog but here is one from tonite.

Domiane Pagnier
Chablis
2006

Chablis is just to the north wesy of the main Burgundy region and though it shares the grape, Chardonnay, it needs to be much more steely , minerally, and less oaked. I really like it especially on warm summer evenings. And being a very warm summer evening I picked a bottle up from Carrefour. Grippy intense fruit, apply nose. Great body and substance. Long and a god layer of fruit. A very good Chabis and will be heading back to get some more. 8.5/10. 10.35€. Carrefour (GB) Geel

Busy running & mtb

2008-05-04T08:43:00.002+01:00

Just coming to the end of an extended weekend as both Thursday and Friday were holidays in Belgium. Monday isn't so will be back to work tomorrow. The weather has been mixed, Thursday and Friday nothing special as you will see below but Saturday and today are very nice. Busy doing both running and cycling.

Thursday we did the Abdijtocht, which is a 15 km cross country run between the old Abbeys at Averbode and Tongerlo. These to abbeys are historic and are many centries old, but are still in use and inhabited by white clad Norbertine monks. Averbode was founded in the 1100 abd is dominated by its Baroque church. An hour before the run the heavens opened and it poured with rain. We sought cover under the archway along with several hundred others. The run goes through the very muddy woods around the abbey heading north to Tongerlo. The crowds weren't as big as expected due to the rain but still big enough espeially when we went through the centre of Westerlo. The race ended up at the abbey at Tongerlo, also founded in the 1100 but now more well known as the original source of the local Tongerlo beer. It was a really enjoyable run and I finished in 1 hr 9 mins and Nancy in 1hr 15 mins.

Friday the weather was a bit more settled and I went out mountaining biking in the afternoon. Back in the same area that was running the day before and following the 20 km green route I got very muddy but it wass great fun.

Saturday we had the annual Osterloo race, which is held in the village we live in. The start is only 200m from the appartment so no logistical problems getting to the start line. The weather was this time a bit too hot as well in to the 20's. I ran with Nancy, who was trying to beat her position last year when she was the 3rd women home. She got one place better this year and came 2nd, about 2 minutes behind the first place.

And today a bit more leisurly though we will take the bikes out this afternoon and cycle to Nancy's parents. We that the plan any way.

Antwerp 10 miles

2008-04-21T14:49:00.000+01:00

Starting to settle into live based perminently in Belgium. While I am still working away 9some where in Europe) for some of the week I do at least get Friday working from home in Geel. One of the side benefits of this is that I can spend more time on getting the fitness level up.

On the subject of fitness Sunday saw us running the Antwerp 10 miles. It was one of the many events one in Antwerp that day focused around the Marathon in the morning. The 10 mile was in the afternoon and we got there in plenty of time and had a relax coupleof hours enjoying the warm spring weather before the start. Good mainly flat run. The main exception was the noval idea of the two road tunnels that we had to run through, both under the Schalder river. The thing about tunnels is that the down hill bit is first and then you have the climb back to the surface again. The middle part of the race is through the cobbled streets of the old town, and the good weather ensured a big turnout of spectators.

The time were great, a combination of not being overly fit, the weather and the tunnels. I finsihed in 01:18 and Nancy in 01:24. The biggest problem with the day was the Antwerp transport system which ground to a halt trying to get everyone out again.

To see photos etc click on link www.inganterp10miles.be

Grant Burge

2008-04-13T18:50:00.004+01:00

Grant Burge
Barossa Valley
South Australia
http://www.grantburgewines.com.au/

Grant Burge wines have been in existence since 1988, but the family have been growing vines for much longer and the Burge website proudly exclaims that Grant is the 5th generation to make wine. These days he has some 200ha and produces a wide variety of wines headed as expected by Syrah. The majority of the top wines are named after the vineyard from which the either wholly or partly come from.

The wine tasting was at Australian Fine Wines in Lier, Belgium on 29th March 2008.

Pinot Noir Chardonnay
NV
Methode Traditionelle

This sparkling wine is sourced from grape on in Eden Valley. Toasty nose. Though champagne styled it is lighter and without the distinctive bitterness. But that is not to say it is too fluffy. Good acidity. Good balance between old world and new world styles. Very good. 8/10. €17.95.

Barossa Vines
Semillon
2004

The Barossa Vines is the everyday range of wines. This Semillon is sourced from with Barossa. Sweet lemon nose. Touch of petrol plastic give it a slight Riesling style. Fresh and good body to the wine. Very good. 8/10. €7.50.

Barossa Vines
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
2006

This is a blend of the two white grapes sourced from the Cameron Vale and Lily Farm vineyards. The Sauvignon really takes over giving it a big new world personality with driving tropical nose full of mango and pineapple. The tropical fruit burst carrys through on the taste. Too much in your face fruit for me. OK. 6.5/10. €7.95.

Barossa Vines
Riesling
2004

I can’t find this referred to on the website. Big petrol nose. Bit too much as the petrol hints that are typical for Riesling are meant to be hints not a trip to the garage. Some apple fruit comes through in a second wave. OK. 6.5/10. €7.50.

Zerk
Semillon Viognier
2004

Mainly Semillon, the grape are sourced from the Zerk vineyard in Barossa. These are old vines dating back some 70 years. Good toasty nose. Tropical fruits and lemon, but smooth and much more elegant than some of the earlier wines. Long complex finish, and a refreshing level of acidity. Very good. 8.5/10. €10

Summers
Chardonnay
2006

The majority of the Chardonnay is from the Summers vineyard in Eden Valley, and rest from the Adelaide Hills. Big oaky styled wine. Full on creaminess. Loads of tropical fruit but has a good level of acidity to add some structure and shape. Not my favourite style but well made. Good. 7.5/10. €12.25.

Kraft
Sauvignon Blanc
2006

Again this is in the major from a single vineyard, Kraft, right in the centre of the Barossa Valley., but demand has also lead to additional grapes being sourced from the Eden Valley and Adelaide Hills. Another big tropical wine. Full of mango, gooseberry and passionfruit. Ends with a hit of apricot. Full on wine but is very well structured and has very good finish. 8.5/10. €12.25.

Lilly Farm
Frontignac
2006

From 20 year old vines in the Barossa. Fontignac is a local south of France name for Muscat. Good elegant light floral nose. Good Rivesaltes styles aperitif, which it is modelled on. I would say stick to the really stuff though. Good. 7/10. €8.25.

Barossa Valley
Cabernet Merlot
2006

This is a blend of 68% Cab and balance Merlot from various different Barossa vineyards. Peppery nose. Good body and build. Black fruits, brambles and black current. Pepper again on the finish. Good well delivering wine. 7.5/10. €9.45.

Barossa Valley
Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre
2006

The classic Aussie blend known as GSM. Good easy sweet nose. Very inviting. Delicate perfumed. Good fruits and lighter tannins. Drops a bit on the finish. Good. 7.5/10. €9.45.

Barossa Valley
Shiraz
2005

Classic Barossa grape. Earthy nose. Harsher more rural feel. Grippy tannins. Really hints centre of the tongue. Pepper, dark cherry, cassis. Bigger wine and works well. Very good. 8/10.

Barossa Valley
Shiraz Viognier
2004

Another classic blend with in true Rhone style a touch (10%) of the perfumed Viognier is added to take some of the harshness from the Shiraz. More earthy nose and a sweeter, more fruitier style. Good.7.5/10. €9.45.

Cameron Vale
Cabernet Sauvignon
2004

This is from the Cameron Vale vineyard located between Lyndoch and Williamstown in the south of the Barossa valley and the vines are all over 30 years old. Interestingly a touch of Shiraz is also added. Salty sea nose which was not to be expected. Then black tight fruits with a good wack of tannins. OK. 6.5/10. €12.75.

Hilcot
Merlot
2005

Merlot is not the most common Barossa grape but this vineyard was planted in 1982. Light easy wine with touch of oaky vanilla. Grow through tasting and good undercoat of spice. Elegant and refrained. Red fruits. Good. 8/10. €12.75.

Miamba
Shiraz
2005

100% Shiraz from the Miamba vineyard, again at the south end of the Barossa. Slightly closed nose. Then opens up with soft red fruits. Some spice but not overly exciting. OK. 7/10. €12.75.

Filsell
Old Vine Shiraz
2005

This is from 100 year old vines from one of most acclaimed vineyards in the Barossa. Concentrated intense. Big oaky hits. Big muscley but harsh and tough. Big dry tannins. Spice Christmas cake Chocolate. Chewy and built for red meat. Very good. 8.5/10. €18.95.

Adegnego
Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre0

2002

This is the first of the top Icon range. All the fruit is from the Barosssa and all is old vines, including 110 year old Grenache. The split is 39% Shiraz, 35% Grenache and 26% Mourvedre and it has seen 17 months in french oak and a further 2 years matured in Burges cellars before release. Smooth and elegant. Complex undercurrent of flavours. Big intense spicy menthol nose. deep cherry flavours. Long and intensive sweet finish. Excellent. 8.5/10. €39.

Balthazar
Shiraz Viognier
2003

Mainly Shiraz with just a touch of Viognier all sourced from Eden Valley. Clear bright red brown colour. Slightly earthy nose. Smooth easy drinking as is smoothed out by the Viognier. Dry finish. Lacks a bit of personality. OK. 7/10. €21.95.

Holy Trinity
Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre0
2002

Old favourite of mine. Again all old vined grapes again with oldest well over 100 year old. Again a light red colour but this time a much more intense and bigger earthy Rhone like nose. Good mix and layer of flavours. spicy and touch of fruit cake. Touch of salty finish. Good level of tannins. Excellent. 9/10. €21.95.

Meshach
Shiraz
1999

From the oldest best vines from the Filsell vineyard in the Barossa. fermented and then matured in oak barrels for 20 months. This is the top wine from the winery. Big wow nose. Concentrated fruit. Chocolate, Christmas pudding, spice and pepper. Tight but well structured tannins. Long intense finish. Excellent. 8.5/10. €60.

All in all a very good tasting through one of Australia's finest big producers.

Arrived at new home in Belgium

2008-04-13T09:53:00.003+01:00

Now offically living in Belgium.

Brought the last of my things from my house in UK including the bear.....

More Cadman wines

2008-04-09T20:59:00.002+01:00

I have been backin England for the last week or so, which has made a change. Not for much longer though. The fortnight has two main objective, first to kick start my new European role and secondly, to complete all the things needed to be done to move to Belgium. Been busy getting my house ready to rent out and sorting out the tax impact of the move. Lots to do ahead of drivig over on Friday.

And I'm still not over the footie last night.

On the wine front a few more notes from the box of wines that I mentioned in the last post.

Domaine de la Prose
Embruns Blanc
Coteaux du Languedoc St Georges d'Orques 2003

This wine hales from the very south of France. The Coteaux appellation is a large area that covers the areas of Languedoc not already snaped up into their own appellations. The top villages can place their names on the labelas well, hence is wine is fom the village of St Georges. The wine is made by Bertrand de Mortillet. Its a blend of classic south of France wine grapes, Vermentino, Roussane, Viognier, Grenache. It pours to a deep viscous yellow gold. Big concentrated taste. Full of thick tropical fruits and touch of old honey. Big wine but am not sure where it is aiming for and to me it doesn't quite work. Bit strange. 6.5/10. £8.99.

Kopparossa
Unwooded Chardonnay
Coonawarra 2004
Austarlia

The winery takes its name from a combination of the former region of Koppamurra and the terra rossa soil on a disincte limestone ridge that runs through the region. This is a straight forward unoaked (good) chardonnay. Light tropical fruits. Easy, light and vry drinkable. Good straight forward Chardonnay. 7.5/10. £9.99.

Le Serena
Rosso di Montalcino
Tuscany
2004

Rosso is the second wine from the town of Montalcio, the top being the rightly famed Brunello, which produces some of Italy's greatest. The winery makes both, using the same Sangiovese grape. I am normally a grat sangiovese fan but this didn't quite work for me. While it had the typical deep but clear red colouring and a big tannic introduction it seems to be missing any complexity. The ending ws dull and flabby. Not impressed. 6.5/10. £13.49.

And one more wine this time not from Cadman.

Reserve des Tuguets
Madiran
2005
France

Madiran is one of those famous old appellation in the southwest located between Bordeaux and the Pyrenees. The classic grape from the town is Tannet, and here its combined with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Brooding murky dark red. Beefy, brambly nose. Black fruits, touch of mentol. Chewy teeth gripping tannins. Long complex spicy finish. Built for red meat. Very good challanging wine. 8.5/10. £4.99 (from £8.99) Tesco.

Dogpoint Road

2008-03-31T20:00:00.003+01:00

A few week ago I sent of for a great offer through WineDoctor.co.uk for a introduction box from Cadman Fine Wines. It cost £80 from an orginal cost of over £160. So will be tasting a few of thm over the next few days. And to start.

Dogpoint Road
Sauvignon Blanc
Bouldervines
Marlborough
New Zealand

This is the first of the twelve that I opened. The Bouldervines Estate dates back to the 1970’s, being planted along the Omaka River in Marlborough by Philip and Janey Walsh, accompanied by there German Shorthaired Pointer (my second favourite breed) called Thomas. This, their top wine, is named after him. Now I am not a fan of NZ Sauvignon Blanc and find is too much in the face tropical, but this was much better than that. True the big tropical pineapple, mango nose was there but there was restrain. More of the classical grassy, goose berry subtley came to the fore. Its rich and flavoured but does develop and it’s a big leap from the one dimensional normal stuff. Very good and will seek out some more. 8.5/10. £9.99 Cadman Fine Wine.

Maybe one day they will be a great Belgium wine named after Simba, though I think she would appreciate more a beer named after her!

2008-03-30T13:57:00.003+01:00

This week has been my last one as part of the project I have been doing in France and Spain since January last year. It means at last i can complete my move to Belgium and my new job, also based in Belgium. Also means I can now get back into runnig as the late Spanish working hours play havoc to any attempts to plan an after work run. We have a race planned in a few weeks so something to target. I was out running last Tuesday for an hour and half. Good to make the most of the last bit of Spanish sunshine.

Bought a new piece of running kit this week in Decathlon. I have been toying with getting a running gps that I can track exactly how far I have run. Have looked at some before but to get one that downloads tends to be around €200 or upwards. Popped into a Decathlon store in Spain to get a new daysack and then saw that they had a new own brand in store that did just about all I am looking for and only 99€. So bought one and yes so far its very good. Downloads onto my pc and interacts with google earth and downloads satalitte images and maps.

Friday got back to Belgium and opened up a good bottle of wine to celebrate.

Ciel Liquide
Jean Philippe Padie
Cotes du Roussillon 2003

Padie is one of the new stars since he set up alone after learning the trade as a disciple of Gauby. Not that he has moved too far as still based in the same village of Calce. This small village on the hills to the west of Perpignan and famed for the deep red clay soil where much of the finest Roussillon wine is produced. His vineyards are biodynamic. This wine is a blend of 40% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Luxorious sweet plum nose. Inviting. Dark cherry hue. Opens full of cherry and plum. Dry middle with a very good tannic structure. Really develops in the mouth and flows through a multitude of layers of flavour. Long finish that melts in the mouth. Best wine I have tasted for a while. Excellent. 9.5/10. 20€ Cotes-Roussillon in Perpignan.

Saturday we wents to a Grant Burge wine tasting from Australian Fine Wines in Lier and the details will follow shortly. The evening we headed to one of the many cafe-restaurants in the centre of Geel, La Post.

Merlot
Spagnolli
Trentino 2003
Italy

This Merlot comes from the Trentino DOC right in the north of Italy just south of the Austrian border, form the steepsided Adige valley. Not the most common grape from the area but produces a good enough wine. Bright and fruity. Easy to drink but a slight touch of tannins to accompany food well eough. OK and plesent enough without being exciting. 7/10.

And back home we opened a bottle of Australian Riesling.

Whispering Hill Riesling
Capel Vale
Western Australia
2000

Capel Vale is one of the most important produces in Western Australia and has been producig a good range of wine since its creation in 1974 by Dr Peter Pratten. From a single vineyard in the Mount Barker area, its of course 100% Riesling. This bottle has now had abit of aging (now 8 yeard old) and it ha developed very well. The colour was a deep golden colour. The nose was a great combination of toasted pine nuts and honey. Dry to taste but a deep multitude of tastes. Toasty, citric fuits and the pinenuts, and a lovely hint of honey. Well made wine designed to respond to age. Think it could develop for a couple of years yet but no problem with concuming now. Very good. 8.5/10. 14€ Aus Fine Wines

Start of the week

2008-03-19T19:10:00.000Z

It nearly time for our easter trip to Madrid and then north to Avila, Valladolid and Ribera.

A few wine notes from this week are below. It a strange week in Murcia as nearly all is bank holidays. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday and then Monday, and then in Murcia city itself the Tuesday is the spring fete. Thursday morning I will be heading north to Madrid to pick Nancy up from the airport and then we will be spending the first night in Madrid.

Bodega de Pinoso
Pon Tos
Crianza
Alicante
2003

This region as the name suggests is inland from Alicante. It’s a blend of Monastrell, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and has seen 6 to 12 months in oak barrels. Pinoso is a cooperative for some 400 growers in the region. Big wine. Harsh tannins. Chewy cherry. Deep dark wine. Prune nose. Tight grippy tannins. Needs food. OK. 6.50€ 7/10.

Luzon
Blanco
Jumilla 2006

This is a blend of 70% Macabeo and 30% Chardonnay, and been fermented in stainless steel with no oak aging. Deep green yellow. Quiet a meaty feel to the texture.. Pear and guava on the nose as tropics comes through. Hints of kiwi. Crisp level of acidity and stands up to food very well. Pear. Dry finish. Good. 8/10.

Weekend wine

2008-03-15T22:21:00.002Z

Back in the UK this weekend, alone as Nancy is flying down to Spain next week for our Easter trip. Friday night I had a evening out in London, meeting up with Stuart,an old friend from University. In honour of my forthcomig move to Belgium we went to a Belgium/ Dutch pub called the Lowlander. A good evening trying out the different Trappist beers.

Some wines from the weekend.

Agapito Rico
Carchelo
Cianza 2003
Jumilla
Spain

Agapito Rico is one of the more international focused Jumilla wineries and has a good following in America. The base of the wine is Monestrell, which is the dominant grape of the region, and this has been matured in small oak barrels for a year. It’s a deep bright red. Smooth and a touch elegant. Smooth soft style. Spiciness and red fruit add to the creamy texture. Very good. 8.5/10. 7.50€.

Tingleup
Great Southern
Western Australia
Riesling 2007

This is part of the Tesco finest range. Purfumed peachy nose. Touch of sherbet comes across. Dry taste. Citric and white blossom. Petrol hints in classic Riesling. Long finish with hints of tea. Good easy example of Australian Riesling. Good value. 8/10. £6.99.

Spain wine and last 2 week

2008-03-12T12:30:00.000Z

After an incredibly busy few months I can now relax a bit. The project seems to be a success and I now have just over 2 weeks left in Spain. For Easter Nancy is coming down and we have a few days planned in around Madrid and the region just to the north, places like Avila, Burgos and the Ribera del Duoro region.

On a wine front I am trying to use my last few days in Murcia to focus on wines from the region, Jumilla in particular.

One wine from the weekend.

Torres
Waltraud
Penedes 2005
Riesling

Unusual, it’s the only Spanish Riesling I have come across. Torres is the biggest and most international famous Catalane winemaker. Perfumed and apple blossom on the nose. Touch of sherbet and honey on the taste. Finishes heading drier than originally suggests. Easy to drink. Light delicate. Unusual and not bad for an aperitif. Bought in Spain and have not seen in the UK. 12.40€.

And one from last night

BSI (Bodega San Isidro)
Sabatacha
Petit Verdot
Jumilla 2005

This lesser known French grape produces a few different wines around the Jumilla region. The winery is a cooperative and is the largest producer in Jumilla. They produce an extensive range with examples in most categories. This is from their second level of wines. It’s a dark purple red. Distinctive ripe black and blueberry nose with hints of oaky texture. Creamy texture. New fruits. Some creaminess as its time on oak comes through. Relaxed a bit further down into the bottle. Ok but didn’t quite seem the finished article. OK. 6.5/10.

A few goods wines

2008-03-08T13:42:00.001Z

Pol Roger
Champagne
Reserve
NV

Following on the last few weeks and all the long hours it was time to toast success in the best possible style with a great bottle of champagne. Pol Roger is one of the great champagne houses and forever linked to being the favourite tipple of Winston Churchill. This is the UK targeted reserve. Smooth and elegant. Refreshing. A touch of biscuity creaminess but more gentle than some champagnes. Good. 8/10.

Chateau de la Grille
Chinon
1999

I have had this in the cellar for a while. Chateau de la Grille was actually the first winery I ever visited while on holiday in France with Mum & Dad, and I picked up a bottle of the 1989 vintage. This is a bit later but still had aged well in the 9 years since harvest. Chinon is one of the top appellations on the Loire and is 100% Cabernet Franc. Light ruby red in colour. Big fruity open nose. Good black fruit, full of brambles. No sign of tiredness. Good balance and a good finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Trimbach
Riesling
Reserve
2005
£12

This is a reserve Riesling from Alsace. Trimbach is one of the great names from the region. Straw yellow in colour. Opens up a touch sweet but the dries out in the mouth. Smooth with a few hints of lemon and apple. Lacks a bit of body. Light. Ok but not the best Riesling by a mark. OK. 7/10.

Cantina di Negrar
2005
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico,
Veneto
£14.75

Amarone is a style of Italian wine from the Valpolicella region just north of Verona. It is made from slightly dried grape which concentrate the flavour. Big fruity sweet nose. Thick textures body. Sweet and velvety. Big succulent flavours. Cherry, creaminess. If you have a sweet tooth then its well worth trying an Amarone, its not sweet sweet but luxurious. Very good. 8.5/10.

Wines from the weekend

2008-02-17T16:13:00.002Z

After another busy week it ws good to be back home, not to much of a break as had to work for most of it. But good to be home at least. Busy finalising our Easter weekend in Spain, starting in Madrid and then heading north to Avila, Burgos and Segovia.

And we have booked our big holiday for this year, were going to Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras and all the Mayan ruins. Not until November but something to look forward to.

And my cold seems at last to be going so its been great to feel like a human again, nd get my taste buds back. So now for a couple of wines from the weekend.

Matarromera
Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2004

Another wine from the Ribera. This is from a group comprising of 6 wineries, 4 of them based within the Ribera. The best known of their wine is the Emina label which has a heavy presence around Spain. This Crianza is 100% Tempranillo which has been matured in oak barrels for 14 months and then a further 10 in bottle before release. Dark black red. Modern fruity nose full of brambles and blackcurrent. This deep fruit stays through on tasting. Deep flavours. Black fruit with a touch of tannins. Works well. Very good. 8/10. 12.95€.

Lucien Albrecht
Riesling 2004
Grand Cru Pfingstberg
Alsace

This is a well known producer from the village of Orschwihr. Grand Cru signifies one of the top 51 vineyards in the region, though this does not always work. grand Cru's need to be bigger wine and this was very much the case here. Slightly off dry but works in a multiple of layers. Hints of sherbet on the nose and first taste but then dries out. Apple fruit and a touch of citric as well. Good. 8/10. 11€ Carrefour.

2008-02-09T12:10:00.000Z

A couple of wines from Spain as that where I have been for most of last week. Both a continuing a couple of themes of late, Ribera and Albarino. My only previso is that I have been ill this week so my nose and senses are a bit blocked up and are not working properly.

Bogadas Montebaco
Semele
Ribera del Duoro
2004

This is a big open internation styled red from Ribera. It a blend of round 90% Tempranillo and the balance is Merlot. The sales seem focused on Spain and the US so I don't think much will get into the UK. Big fruit driven nose but with a intreging animally earthiness. The taste gives away the 15 months in oak barrels and has a creamy fruit taste. Good straight forward drinkable wine. 8/10.

Pazo Senorans
Rias Baixas
Albarino
2006

This white hails from the Galica region famed for its whites. Its 100% Albarino. Its a big wine for a white with lots of body and acidity. Its very full of tropical fruit, lots of pineapple and mango. Touch too obvious and little elegance. Ok but not the best from the region that have tasted. 7/10.

Wines and food from the weekend

2008-02-03T17:36:00.000Z

We had a friend over dinner on Saturday night. After I got over the shock of Englans woeful second half display against Wales, all the worst because they played so well in the first 30 minutes. The end of the game pretty much coincideed with the start of the evening so at least there was a distraction.

We started the evening with a aperatif and a selection of hor d'overs. In traditional style we opened with a sparkler. We opened a Cremant d'Alsace which always makes a good and great value alternative to champers.

Louis Irion
Cremant D'Alsace
Brut

This bubbly is made from 100% Pinot Blanc but is made in the methode traditional i.e. the same method as champagne. Its a lot lighter than champagne and ssmoother. Easy to drink and unassuming. OK, nothing special but always a good way to start and works well with smoked salmon. 6.5/10.

The starter was an old favourite, Tuna with sesame and soya saurce and chilli. Key is not to over cook and just to flash it so that only the surface of the tuna is cooked. This time it worked ok.

Abbazia Monte Oliveto
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2005

This white is from the famous walled town, reknown for its ancient towers, of San Gimignano in Tuscany. Its made from 100% Vernaccia and is unusual in that it is a white wine in a land so dominated by reds. Deep greeny yellow. Potent nose. Full of white flowers and apple. Good body and a satifying degree of intensity. Good. 7.5/10. 4.55€ Carrefour.

For the main we went for something simple and roasted a piece of beef. Got the timing just right and the meat was very juicy and tasty. We had it with dauplinose potatoes and a sauce made from horse raddish, creme frache and mustard. Easy but very tasty.

Piccini
Nero d'Avola
Sicilia
2006

Keeping an Italian feel to the wine. Nero d'Avola is a grape that is typical to the south of Italy and especially the island of Sicily. Piccini is more of an italian brand and although they are based in Tuscany the produce wiine from other regions. This intence red is full red fruit and has a very tasty spicy and peppery structure. Some light tannins. Works well with the red meat. Good. 7.5/10. 4.95€ Carrefour.

Albarino

2008-02-02T15:17:00.000Z

Back from Spain late last night and then tried to make the most of relaxing for the evening. Difficult week on the project in Spain and tired, and seem to just be holding off a cold setting in.

Opened a botle a brought back from Spain. Whites from Spain aren't in general upto much but there are one or two exceptions. The main one is the great Albarino grape from Galica up on the Atlantic coast. The best region is Rias Baixes, and this fjord like and wet region really produces some excellent whites. A bit like a Sauvignon Blanc but with more perfume but not the mad tropical flavours associated with new world. Its worth searching an example out.

Lagar de Cervera
Rias Baixes
2006

Crisp light gold colour. Good perfumed nose. Melon. Good body to the wine. Handles food well. Light mango and melon. Crisp and minerality. Nice acidic finish. Touch of white pepper. Went very well with a salmon and prawn omelette. Very good. 8/10. 9.50€ Corte Inglais (Spain), £11.99 BBR (UK).

Spanish day

2008-01-24T19:30:00.000Z

Saturday was designated a Spanish theme day, with tapas and then paella, accompanied by Spanish wine.

We started of course with a salad, simply iceberg, tuna and olives, and a good helping of olive oil.

For the tapas we had a selection of iberia ham with parmasan, stuffed peppers, spicy olives, and fried chirozo with port and chillies. In true Spanish style we had a classical dry sherry.

Sanchez Romate
Reserva Especiales
Palo Cortado
Regente

This is produced from the Paloino grape and had been aged in american oak. Luxourious golden brown. Almond and burnt creme on the nose. Fantastic. Almond in the mouth, dry long and great spicy finish. Wonderful layers of taste. Develops through a complex web of flavours. One of the best dry sherries tasted. Superb. 9/10.

The paella, my second using my new paella pan, was a bit disappointing. I thing possibly a bit too much sherry and I didn't follow the lessons from last years paella night very well. My fault so no excuses.

Alejandro Fernandez
Pesquera
Ribera del Duoro
2004

Deep dark red. Intense dry fruit, touch of sweetness. Good tannin structure gives complexity and character. Hints of leather and tobacco. Long finish. Very good. 8/10.

New Year wines

2008-01-20T13:48:00.000Z

A final catch up on wines consumed over the new year period.

Marron
Private Gallery
Chardonnay Viognier
Vpd Vaucluse 2007

This blend from the south of the Rhone is unusual. The Viognier adds purfume and really adds to nose and a touch of apricot. Gives a good combination of minerality and body. Works well. Good. 7.5/10.

Peter Lehmann
Stockwell Road Shiraz
Barossa
2004

Peter Lehmann is one of my favourite producers in the Barossa valley and this is meant to be a one of release from a few parcels around the Stockwell Road. Big wine. Beefy. Full of pepper and spice. Touch of chocolate. Typical of a Barossa red. Enjoyed this. Very good. 8/10.

Kemblefield
Gewertztraminer
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
2006

We had this with the curry that Nancy and my Mum had been cooking together. Gewertz needs to be sighted as the best wine to handle the spice of a curry. That due to the natural spiciness of the grape. This intense spice does indeed hold together and worked very well. Good example of the type. Very good for curry. 8/10.

Santa Rita
Reserva
Merlot
2002

Showing signs of aging with a brown edge around the cherry red. Good fruity taste with a light but interesting tannin edge to give it some structure. Works well with food. Tannins hold to a long finish. Good. 7/10.

Castello di Brolio
Chianti Classico
1999

We brought this back from a trip to Italy 3 years ago and our new year eve meal was the ideal time to open. Had it with a roasted goose and worked very well. Intense fruiy, red cherries, jamminess. The typical tannins are now relaxing with age. Spicy finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Rene Sahonet
Rivesaltes
Hors D'Age

This is an aged fortified wine. Superb intense nose. Layers of creme caramel, christmas cake and biscuits. The develops a toffee finish. Big forward full of sweet layers. Real pleasure driving wine. Very good. 8.5/10.

Casa Castillo

2008-01-13T16:57:00.000Z

This weekend has been a relaxing couple of days before heading back to Spain this evening.

Sturday we stayed in and Nancy cooked her favourite Prawns in a Cognac Cream. And today my turn with Veal with Peppers. And a relaxed walk in the woods at Westerlo with Simba. Great to enjoy some winter sunshine. Simba can't go that far these days, the mind is still willing but legs not so sure...

One wine note from Spain.

Casa Castillo
Monestrell 2006
Jumilla

This is from the winery owned by the Roch family. Dark cherry red. Oaky nose, this really dominates. Forward, creamy and butterscotch. To my oak for me. It was better the second day when the oak had dispersed a bit. OK. 7.5/10. €5.10.

2008-01-12T16:32:00.000Z

The Wine Show
Islington, London
December 2007

Overall a pretty disappointing event, too crowded and too commercial, but I don’t think I’m part of the target audience. A few ok and interesting wines though.

The next few wineries are all from New Zealand.

Grove Mill
Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborourgh

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the signature grapes of NZ but it tends to be very different from the steely restrained Loire grape. This is typical of the genre, full full on and full of tropical fruits. The gooseberry and grass is there but too much of a sherbet /pear drop burst. Too sharp. 6.5/10. £8.99 Tesco

Allan Scott
Marlborough

Founded in 1990 and now the largest family owned winery in Marlborough.

Marlborough Riesling 2006

From its ‘Moorland Block’ arounf the winery and it has vines from 30 years old, some of the oldest in Marlborough. Really exaggerates the classic Riesling plasticy petrol nose. Lime and kemon. Slightly off dry. Good level of acidity making it able to stand up to food flavours. Very forceful and no subtlies. OK. 7/10. £9.99 Lay & Wheeler.

Hunter’s
Marlborough

Formed in 1983 at the very beginning of the Marlborough wine industry by Jane Hunter and now one of the top names in New Zealand wines.

Miru Miru Brut
2003

This is a vintage sparkling wine using the three classic Champagne varieties. Pear tarty nose. Good mousse. Creamy biscuity flavours add to the mix. Easy drinking. Good. Good value. £11.60.

Tarras Vineyards
Central Otago

This is a Central Otago based, though this wine is from Marlborough and seems to be from one of the new hot wineries in the South Island. It’s jointly owned by local Hayden Johnston and Colorado based Gary & Nancy Carlston.

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006

From a single vineyard on banks of the Wairau River in Marlborough. More restained and classy white. Good flavours and fruit without being too tarty. Good complex and substance in the body. Good. 8/10. £11.95.

Te Mania
Nelson

Well known winery from the very top of the South Island, it was started in 1990 by Jon and Cheryl Harrey. Characterised by stony soils, cool maritime airs and long hours of sunshine, and tend to be very forward tropical fruit driven wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Very forward tropical gooseberry lime flavours. Tarty and pear drops. Not much in your face sherbet. Not my style. 6/10. £9.98

Estate Riesling 2005

Forward floral nose. Hints of petrol on nose. Forawrd but too exaggerated flavours. No depth and no complexity. Off dry. Ok. 7/10. £9.98

Chardonnay 2004

Full of oak. Tropical mango pineapple. No soul and hints of sweaty feet. Not good. 6/10. £9.98

Tohu
Marlborough

This Mauri owned winery, based in Nelson, has quite extensive areas of vines around the South Island.

Unoaked Chardonnay
Marlborough 2005

Generous and fruity. Full of tropical fruit and big hit of gooseberry which is very bizarre as it tastes and smells more like a new world Sauvignon Blanc. Ok but a bit odd. 7/10. £8.95.

Unoaked Chardonnay
Gisborne 2005

Intense meaty feel. More substance. Creamy biscuity nose. The oak is more pronounced but works well and is in balance with apricot fruit. Good level of complexity. Good. 8/10. £8.95.

Unison
Hawkes Bay
www.unisonvineyard.co.nz

Operating at the top level of wineries in the Gimblett Gravel since 1993. Best known for its dynamic reds that have won many accolades and awards.

Pinot Gris 2006

This was the first white wine to be released by Unison. Quiet nose. Tarty acidity. Refreshing but not much individuality or personality. Still seems very much work in progress. 6.5/10. £13.95.

Still new world but this time to the land of llamas and ponchos, Argentina.

Dona Paula
Lujan de Cuyo
Medoza

The winery was founded in 1997 and is now controlled by the Chilean Santa Rita wine group. Its seen a lot of serious investment and has a state of art winery. The vineyards are all high altitude, all over 1000m high.

Los Cardos
Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Loc Cardos is named after the local thistle that ordains the label. Forward crisp typical warm weather Sauvignon. Full and forward. Sharp and full of gooseberry. Good example of type. Ok.7.5/10.

Los Cardos
Chardonnay 2006

Again very forward and in face. Full of tropical fruit mango and apricot. Too much oak takes over and dominates. Too much like drinking a cream soda. 6/10.

Santa Florentina

Pinot Gris 2006

Idiot on stand was trying to change name to Grigio. Sharp not good. Maybe grigio was right description after all. Poor. 6/10.

Torrentes Riojana Chardonnay 2007

Closed and not much expression or taste. Best chilled as cold as possible. Poor.6/10.

Vinedos de la Posade
Torrentes 2006

More expressive and full lots of tropical flavours. A better example than the previous two. OK. 7/10.

Trivento
Mendosa

A big jump up now in quality. This winery was formed in 1997 by the Chilean giant Concha Y Toro to concentrate on producing international focused wine. The name comes from the three winds that blast through the area.

Viognier 2006

Good open sweet fruit on the nose. Full of apricot and a touch of bitter orange. Citric fruits and that taste of bitterness carries through. An interesting level og complexity. Good. 8/10.

French Wines Experience
This was a series of stages that were designed to run through a brief overview of French wine. For what it tries to be it worked well.

Sparkling

AC Cremant d’Alsace
Wunsch & Mann
Brut NV

A blend of Pinot Blanc, Aux and Chardonnay and has been aged for 2 years. Open nose, biscuity. Apple, acidity good level. Easy light. Good.7.5. £10.99

AC Cremant du Jura
Philippe Michel
Les Grands Chais 2005

100% Chardonnay. More sparkling. Light oaky butter. Fluffy. Good champagne alternative for xmas. 7. £5.99 Aldi.

AC Blanquette de Limoux
Cave des Sieurs d’Arques
Cuvee Princesse
2004

Biscuit nose. Light, more elegant. Apple hit. Light. Ok. 7. £9.20.

AC Champagne
Jacquart
Brut Mosaique
NV

Unusually meaty pate nose ! Biscuits. Acidic but smooth. Good food wine. OK 7.5. Majestic £23.99

AC Cremant de Loire
Langlois-Château
Brut Rose
Francois Regis de Fougeroux
NV

Light almost clear pink. Easy vegital nose. OK.7/10.

These are crisp light whites.

Domaine Felines Jourdan
Picpoul de Pinet 2006
Coteaux du Languedoc

Too warm. Pear is dominent here. Light sea food friendly with enough acidity. Ok. £5.65 Wine Society.

William Févre
Chablis
2006

Basic Chablis from the biggest name in the region. Crisp easy wine. Unoaked and need to be crisp cold. OK. 7/10.

Abbatucci
Cuvee Faustine
AC Ajaccio
Corsica

Very light colour. Light easy nose. Crisp pears. Pears on taste but good acidity as well. Apple. Good.7.5/10.

Full bodied whites

Domaine Cahaupé
AC Juracon Sec 2006

Good body and feel to nose. The taste not as good as nose. Citric. Ok/ Good.7.5/10.

Trimbach
Riesling 2005
Alsace

Basic Riesling from one of the great Riesling houses of the world. Good rounded body to nose. Frageint. Rounded Riesling. OK/ Good. 7.5/10.

Les Cave de Landiras
La Baume
Viognier 2006
Vin de Pays d’Oc

Viognier is great grape and perfect for the sweeter palates. If you like off dry wines, new world and pinot grigio then try this. Big floral petally nose. Peaches and apricot. Very typical viognier but interesting touch of bitterness at close. Good. 8/10. £5.95 Asda, waitrose, Sainsbury.

Louis Jadot
Les Climats Chardonnay 2004
Bourgogne

Very typical introduction to Burgundian whites. Light crisp colour. Big oak nose (it originated here – all Chardonnay’s are a copy) Biscuits, vanilla. Good finish. Balanced. Good. 8/10. £13.99 Threshers.

Robust Reds

M & JL Quinquarlet
La carignan de la Bastide Aux Oliviers 2006
Vin de Pays du Mont Baudile

A vdp from Languedoc some 25 miles west of Montpellier. As name suggests 100% Carignan. Straawberry/ raspberry sundai nose. Creamy oaky wine. Good balance with its inherent tannins. Good. 8/10.

Cros de la Mure
Cotes du Rhone 2005

Tight tannic wine. Dry and quite harsh. Dark fruits but chewy. Needs red meat to come through. OK. 7/10.

Cave de Tain
Crozes-Hermitage M&S 2005

M&S own label. Closed nose. Pepper and red fruit. Spicy tight. Syrah. OK. Needs food. 7/10. £7.99

Chateau des Erles
J&F Lurton
Cuvee des Ardoises
Fitou

CSG blend. Spicy but slightly disjointed. Good earth nose. Touch green. OK and may need a bit of time. 6.5/10.

Chateau Camplazens
Syrah 2005
Vin de Pays d’Oc

Good earthy farmyardy nose. Best nose of selection. Red fruit, pepper. Good. 8/10.

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2007 part 2

2007-12-30T11:56:00.000Z

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter

2007 part 2

Chateau La Nerthe
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
www.chateaulanerthe.fr

We had tasted the same cuvee from the winery last year but this time it was more recent vintages. This is one of the top Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2003

This blend is Grenache driven but a good mix of other grapes especially syrah. Good light but deep cherry. Good meaty animal nose. Complex smooth red fruit. Multilayers and great depth. Liquid velvet. Excellent. 9/10. c. £30.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2004

Similar blend as would be expected. More closed but subtle nose. Lighter colour. Less intensity. Aged would explain part of this as may need a few more years to open but I preferred the 03. Good. 7.5/10. c. £30.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2003
Cadettes

This is the premium cuvee from the winery and is a blend of 100 year old Grenache and Mourvedre. Much more harsh and sturdy. Dark stewy cherry. Very early in the life of this wine. Big bruising food wine. Very good. 8/10. c. £50.

Chateau La Tour Blanche
Sauternes
www.tour-blanche.com

Sauternes is the famed Bordeaux region that makes sweet wine blended from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. This winery is owned by the Ministry of Agriculture and is also the site of a agricultural school.

Les Charmilles de Tour Blanche 2005

This is the second wine made from none 1st Cru vineyards and excess from the top vineyards. Good bright good. Easy straight forward. Pleasant enough but not much depth. Bit obvious but ok. 7/10.

Chateau La Tour Blanche 2002

Much more intensive aggressive nose. Honey and tropical fruit on nose. Big jump in quality than the second wine. Sweet but has subtle layers. Spice and cinnamon. Good. 8/10. c£25

Chateau La Tour Blanche 1998

The few additional years in the bottle have served the wine well. Developed a bigger but more delicate nose. Multilayers of sweetness. More sophisticated taste. Spices orange and honey. Very good. 8.5/10.

And now to the Spanish focus of the tasting.

Pago de los Capellanes
Pedrosa de Duero
Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero near Valladolid in central Spain has been the modern rising star and rivals the more historic Rioja as Spain’s top wine region. The original and still the most sought after was Vega Sicila but combination of new and traditional growers have added the quantity of top quality wine. Refreshing the grape used has been Tinto Fino (the local version of Tempranillo) although there are some additions of Bordeaux and Grenache grapes.

This winery is run by the Rodero-Villa family and was started in 1980. They have approximately 100ha dominated by Tinto Fino. The winery is high at some 800m above sea level and located on unyielding clayey limestone. The temperatures can be severe as well with days below 0c in winter and hot summers. All of which stess the vines into developing long deep roots and juicy fruits.

Joven Roble 2006

This is the young wine and is a blend of *0% Tinto Fino and the rest is Cabernet and Merlot. It’s seen 5 months in new French oak but the varieties are vinified separately and then blended just prior to bottling. Light bright cherry colour. Tight rigid red fruit. Opens up in mouth and fruits really open up. Touch of vanilla works well. Good. 7.5/10. £11.75

Tinto Crianza 2004

This time the blend is 90 Tinto and only Cabernet, but like the wine above they are vinified separately. Being Crianza the wine see much more maturing with 12 months on newish French oak and then a further 12 in the bottle before release. Bright red cherry. Intense but smooth velvety nose. The vanilla again compliments well. Tannins give a bit of structure and grip. Great long complex finish. Very good. 8.5/10. £21.45

Tinto Reserva 2003

The same blend as above and the same vineyard, the only difference is that this has spent 18 months in oak. This has an even bigger more intensive earthy nose. The finish is even longer as well. Similar to previous but more so… Excellent 9/10.

Parcela El Nogal 2003

This is from a specific parcel of vineyard and is 100% Tinto, but it’s not mentioned on the website so I know little else. Great intensive nose. Red cherry fruit and a lash of cream. Smooth spicy Christmas cake flavours. Nuts and dried fruit. Excellent. 9/10. £44.96.

Parcela El Picón 2003

This is on the website and is also 100% tinto from a 2hs separate parcel of vines with a unique micro climate. Its seen 26 months in French oak. Intense cherry red. Floral and creamy. Big cherry hit. Sweet luxurious feel. Long finish. Big wine with a good but strong layer of tannins. Built to last and develop over ten or more years. Needs red meat to really bring the tannins into balance. Excellent. 9/10.

As you can guess from the scores I really liked this winery and when I am back in Spain in January I will be seeking out the wine.

Mas d’en Gil
Priorat
Spain
www.masdengil.com

This region really is the current dynamic driver in Spain, particularly in the proud, but often insular Catalunya. This area of steep valleys and rounded hills, remote and tiny, there is only some 1000ha under vine to serve a ever growing demand. The geography sees the hills protected from the north by the Montsants and its open to the Mediterranean breeze to the south. The real key here is the soil ‘Licorella’, the dark brown jagged slatey soil which forms the natural limit to the appellation. The key grapes here are Carinena and Garnacha, both which have some every old vineyards to produce wonderfully low yielding demanding products.

This is a 125ha estate in the south of the region owned by the Rovira family since 1998. The driving force and founder is Pere Rovira Rovira.

Coma Vella 2004

This is a blend of Carinena, Garnacha, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet. Its seen 12 month in French oak. A big meat chewy wine. Tobacco and black fruits, plumy. Big tannins. An interesting individual wine. Good. 8/10.

Clos Fonta 2004

This is the estate wine and is produced from 70 year old vines. It’s a blend of Carinena, Garnacha and Cabernet and this time has seen 14 months in oak. Light delicate and smooth nose. Great big chewy monster of a wine. Leather tobacco and sledgehammer. Needs a big red steak or a good Iberian pork dish. Excellent. 9/10.

Abadia Retuerta
Castilla y Leon

www.abadia-retuerta.com

This winery is just outside the boundaries of Ribera but to all intense and purpose, is now becoming a major player in the region. It was founded by Swiss pharmaceutical company Novartis and is a great example of what can be achieved if money and dedication to quality are directed at something. The wines are now in the hands of Angel Anocibar. The estate also focuses on wine tourism and even includes a 12thC abbey.

Rivola 2004

This is the entry wine and is a blend of Tempranillo (60%) and Cabernet (40%), from different vineyards on the estate. Its been aged in French oak for 12 months. Good earthy liquorice nose. A touch of vanilla cream. Spicy intense feel in the mouth. A light tannic structure. Good wine and good value. 8/10. £9.65.

Seleccion Especial 2004

This is the top estate blend and has won many awards around the world. Its made up of 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet and 5% Merlot and this time has seen 18 months in oak. Dark cherry black and deep. Bigger harsher monster of a nose. Touch of oak. Deep flavours, wood smoke. Full and long finish. Very good. 8.5/10. £13.95.

Cuvee Palomar 2004

Similar blend but no merlot in this and likewise has spent 18 months in oak. The Tempranillo is from the best high altitude plots. More open and fruit expressions on the nose. Cherry and spices. Oak is more noticeable and it’s a more rounded smoother international wine. Very good. 8.5/10. £19.95

Pago Negralada 2003

From a single vineyard near the banks of the Duero, and 100% Tempranillo. Big spicy nose full of liquorice and medicines. Figs. Hefty chewy texture with big tannins. Long and intense sweet porty finish. Big food wine. Excellent. 9/10. £53.50

Pago La Garduna 2005

Another single vineyard wine but this time all from Syrah. This has seen 2 years in oak barrels. Big earthy farmyards nose. Wow. Big red fruits and real animal in a bottle. Chewy tannins that cry out for red meat. Wonderful complexity of taste and log exquisite finish. Fantastic. 9.5/10.
PV 2004

From a small plot of Petit Verdot and small quantities with only 1000 bottles produced. Lighter more refine wine than previous ones. Spicy cinnamon and tobacco. Good. 8/10.

C.V.N.E.
Rioja
www.cvne.com

An old traditional Rioja producer. It was started by two brothers in 1879 and is still in the same family. Though seen as old school it has often been forward thinking and has been key in bringing Rioja to wider world. It uses a number of trading names of which the most famous are Cune and Monopolo.

Vina Real
Reserva 2001

This is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and the balance from local varieties, from vines in the Rioja Alavesa sub-region. Spends nearly 2 years in oak and this comes through. Bitter and not much flavours. One dimensional. Not good. 6/10.

Imperial
Reserva 2001

Big improvement. This is 85% Tempranillo and this time with 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from a selection of vineyards around Rioja Alta. It then sees two year barrel aging and a further 2 years in the bottle before release. More intensity and character. Creamy spicy nose. Good. 8/10.

Contino
Reserva 2001

This time from the Contino estate and is a similar Tempranillo based blend as above. 2 years in oak barrels and then a further year in bottle. 2001 is a very good Rioja vintage and this is reflected in this wine. More mellow creamy. Herby spicy. Good red fresh fruit. Good long finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Vina Real
Gran Reserva 1998

Bigger earthier nose. Tighter flavours and more tannic structure. Bigger more meaty flavours. Chewy. Real food wine. Good. 8/10.

Imperial
Gran Reserva 1998

More restrained than Vina Real above. Don’t as complex and pales a bit by comparison. OK. 7.5/10.

Contino
Vina del Olivo
2004

From the vines around a 1000 year old olive tree from 80% Tempranillo and 20% Graciano. Its hand selected and picked and the see 2 years in a mixture of French, US, and Hungarian oak barrels. A further year in bottles within the winery and then its released. Very intense spiciness. Deep cherry. Chewy tannins. Good structure. Peppery. Very good. 8.5/10. £42.

Marqués de Murrieta
Rioja Alta
www.marquesdemurrieta.com

This old and venerable winery is amongst the most traditional and conservative. The style sees considerable amounts of oak aging. In was started in 1852 and amongst the oldest of modern Rioja wineries. Its main estate is called Ygay and they now have some 300ha and produce all their own grapes.

Marqués de Murrieta
Tinto Réserva 2002

Blended from the Ygay estate, its Tempranillo with Garnacha and Mazuelo. It is matured for 23 months in American oak barrels (generally American oak is more oaky than French). Deep cherry. Intense spicy creaminess. Oak very pronounced. Spicy peppery finish. Good but one for oak lovers. 8/10.

Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva 1998

This is the top wine and is only produced in the best years and uses the best grapes from the estate. It spends 41 months in American oak. It mainly Tempranillo but has a higher quantity of Mazuelo (12%) then usual. A big deep red. Intense medicinal spicy nose. Tannins and full of complex herbs and spice. Dry finish. Very good. 8.5/10. £28.50.

Marqués de Murrieta
Gran Reserva 1980 (Magnum)

This old vinetage from before they labelled up the Gran Reserva as Ygay. Sweeter and fruity. More open. Dried fruits, plum, apricot, prunes. Long sweet finish. Good. 8/10.

Castillo Ygay
Historic Release 1978

This old vintage has seen a staggering 216 months in barrel before being bottled in 1998. It has less Tempranillo (75%) and rest mainly Garnacha and Mazuelo. Much more opaque brown colour. More oxygenised, chewy texture. Almonds. More sherry like feel. Very good. 8.5/10. £80.

Lis Neris
Friuli
Italy
www.lisneris.it

In the far north of Italy close to the Slovenian border. The winery was founded 1879 and modernised in the 1990 by the 4th generation Alvaro Pecorari, who was on the stand. They have four different vineyards around the S. Lozenzo village – Gris, Picol, Jurosa and Neris.

Pinot Grigio 2005

A single variety blended from the Gris, Jurosa and Neris vineyards. No oak as matured in stainless steel vats. Good complex beefy nose. Taste not so good. Light with hints of melon. Not sure about. 6.5/10.

Gris 2005

Single vineyards and 100% Pinot Gris, but this has seen 10 months in oak barrels. The oak has worked very well here adding complexity rather than obviously oaky. Earthy nose. Biscuity aromas. Fresh fruit. All works well. Good. 8/10.

Confini 2004

From the reserve range from the Gris vineyard. It’s a blend of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Riesling and has also seen 10 months in barrel but the a further 6 months being bottled aged before release. Intense fruity but clean and crisp. Sweetness and tropical fruit. In glass has a fruity but bitter twist to it. Unusual but works very well. Very good. 8.5/10.

Fiore di Campo 2005

This is 100% Tocai Friulano, a local grape. No barrel aging. Very earthy almost manure intensive nose. Interesting. Very distinctive tastes and feel. Not sure about but worth trying out. 7/10.

Anselmi
Veneto
Italy
www.robertoanselmi.com

The winery, owned by Roberto Anselmi, moved it’s appellation from Soave to Veneto IGT to enable him to expand the quality of his wines without being restrained by the rules. They focus on quality and not quantity, and process a wide range but in small amounts.

San Vincenzo 2006

This is the one wine produced in substantial quantity and is from a vineyards in the Monteforte area. It’s a blend of 80% Garganega, 5% Soave Trebbiano and 15% Chardonnay. No oak. Sweetish nose. Fruity but not much complexity or interest. Dull. 6.5/10.

Capital Forcarino 2006

Single vineyards in the Soave area on top of the Foscarino hill. It’s a blend of 80% Garganega and 20% Chardonnay, all hand selected. More intensity on the nose. Good level of acidity making it more food friendly. Good complexity. Works much better than previous wine. Citrus flavours. Good. 8/10.

Capital Croce 2005

Another single vineyard, this time in the Monteforte area and a single variety, Garganega. The main different here is that half has been matured for 8 months in oak barrels. Earthy bigger creamy nose. Vanillans and a touch of pear drops. Some spices. Good but preferred the unoaked Forcarino. Good. 8/10.

I Capitelli 2005

This is a sweet white from a selection of vineyards but again is from all Garganega. The grapes are then dried until they have the desired amount of noble rot. The wine is then matured for 8 months in oak and then a further year in bottle. Elegant lime driven sweetness. Pure fruit flavours, lemon and lime. Very good. 8.5/10.

Christmas wines 2007

2007-12-26T16:17:00.000Z

Xmas wines.

Below are the wines that we had in, on and around Christmas. Included is the day itself with the food compliments.

Prosecco
Extra Dry
Spumante
Anna Spinato

This sparkling wine Nancy picked up from aldi and very good as well. Very moussey. Light easy fun wine. Fruity and great as an aperitif. Very good value as a champagne alternative. 7/10. 8€.

Chateau Landat
Haut-Medoc
2003

I got this as a present and it was a very pleasant surprise. Opens up to a bright inviting cherry red. Full of ripe red fruit and creamy. Touch of strawberry. Easy comfortable creamy feel in the mouth. Red fruit. Velvety. No great complexity but a very good easy wine. 7.5/10.

Chateau Cayrou d’Albas
Cahors
1995

I picked this up in a supermarket in Cahors. I was intrigued as it obviously had only just been released (or from a withheld parcel) which was a bit unusual. Cahors is famous as being the original home for Malbac. The old harsh black wine has gone the way of a more approachable (but still chewy) style. This has a touch of Merlot in the blend to soften it a bit. Rounded and dark fruits. Some chewiness. Good with food. Good. 7.5/10.

Les Laurelles
Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2006
Les Vins de Vienne

The winery is an association of 4 well known Rhone producers, messrs Cuilleron, Villard, Gaillard and Villa. They have concentrated on the vineyards around the village of Seyssuel, just north of Vienne. This is an equal blend of two great white great from this part of the wine. Marsanne and Viognier. Its works very well in combining the honeyed elegance of Marsanne with the full perfumed, apricot and ultra fashionable Viognier. Great balance of sweet and sour. Lovely. Very good. 8.5/10. In France 6.85€ best I could fine in the UK £10.99.

Cardinal
Gratien & Meyer
Demi-Sec
Loire

This was a Christmas present from Jenny, my sister, and it’s a red French sparkling wine. I had come across Australian red fizzy but not French before. It’s made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Great sparkly mousse of strawberry and cream. Great fun wine. Worth a try. Good. 7.5/10.
And now for Christmas day itself. We had all of Nancy’s family over and we split the courses between us.

To start Nancy has prepared an array of canapés including eggs and shrimp, garlic mushroom and a seafood soup taste. All very good and was accompanied as traditional by champagne.

Autreau
Brut NV

We got this from our friends who import Champagne and a fuller tasting note is earlier in my blog. A good biscuit Champagney Champagne. Not smoothest but good complexity. 7.5/10.

Next came the fresh Fois Gras that I picked up in France. A befits the course a glass of sweet stuff.

Anita & Hans Nittnaus
TBA 2004
Neusiedlersee

Again see earlier notes to see a full tasting note but the honey and burnt orange worked superbly with the fois gras, sweet onion and fig jam. Very good. 8.5/10.

Cauliflower soup was very good. And then I started my Paella using my new Paella pan and the new taught skills I brought back from Spain. Much to my amazement it was perfect (thank you Eduardo). I accompanied it with a bright fruit red.

Domaine de Villemaiou
Corbieres 2004
Gerard Bertrand.

As the ones above I have fuller tasting notes elsewhere (and for the next one). This bright fruit easy (no tannins) worked very well with both the Paella and the soup. 8/10.

Art de Vivre
Chateau L’Hospitalet
Coteaux du Mangueoc la Clape 2005
Gerard Bertrand

A touch too much tannin and harshness to be a perfect fit with the Paella but was ok. A very good wine though. 8/10.

And to the main course.

Nancy cooked a superb Veal with Cognac Sauce. Great.

To go with this I wanted something big, red and a touch sweet to handle the cognac sauce.

EQ
Syrah 2005
Matetic
San Antonio, Chile

Thos 100% syrah has been a real tour-de-force since its conception a few years ago. Dark black red deep. Sweet peppery nose. Open but intense fruits and thick velvety structure. A real Christmas cake of a wine. Very good. 9/10. £14.95 Wine Society.

And to accompany the mature Christmas pud it was a 30 year old sweet sherry.

Noe
Very Old Pedro Ximenez
Gonzalez Byass

This is a 30 year old sherry, from the sweet Pedro Ximenez grape and matured in oak barrels for 30 years. I picked up a half bottle in Spain. Dark brown coloured. Deep intensity of flavour. Burnt almond. Raisin, figs. Smells like the Christmas pud itself and compliments it perfectly. Great wine perfect combination. 10/10.

Osterlo Christmas Walk

2007-12-26T10:39:00.000Z

Being back in Geel for Christmas we managed to go on the annual village walk. There is six huts in different part of the village all with different drinks and food available. It's great for meeting the rest of Osterlo as people move from place to place all wearing silly hats and other parts of Santa outfits.

Trying to get Simba to keep her Santa hat on.....

Meeting up with the neighbours.

A nativity scene with Joseph looking like Michael Jackson....

And Simba finds a friend

Decanter Fine Wine 2007 (part one)

2007-12-24T15:46:00.000Z

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (part one)
November 2007

This is the first of two instalments from this year's Decanter Encounter. I focused more on Pinot Noir and Spain this year.

Perrier-Jouet
Champagne
Epernay

www.perrier-jouet.com

This famous Champagne house has been in existence since 1811. It’s best known for its top cuvee Belle Époque with its wonderfully elegant Art Nouveau bottle designed by Galle. Like many houses it became more of an investment vehicle and since 2005 has been controlled by the Pernod Ricard group, after 4 years being controlled by Allied Domecq.

Grand Brut NV

This is made up of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and the balance Chardonnay. Pale yellow colour with a good level of bubbles. Fresh and easy. Lemon and apple crispness. Creamy and frothy. Ok. 7.5/10.

Grand Brut
Vintage 1998

Much more interesting nose. Good intensity. Cream and lots of fruit. Intense apple quality comes though in taste. Good sharp acidity. Tighter more driven style. Big jump up from NV. Very good. 8.5/10.

Belle Époque
Prestige Cuvee 1999

Great story behind this wine. The before mentioned bottle design was found in the back of a cupboard in the 1960’s and inspired the house to produce a grand cuvee that would live up to the bottle design. It’s much more Chardonnay driven than the standard wines with 50%, the rest is 45% Pinot Noir and just a touch of Meunier. Great animal earthy nose. This earthiness adds and compliments the creamy biscuitiness. Really roared out of the bottle. Settles into a smooth elegant silkiness and ooze’s quality. Wonderfully long finish. Excellent. 9/10.

Lachini
Willamette Valley
Oregon
USA

I have never been a great fan of new world Pinot Noir, having tasted examples mainly from California and New Zealand, but after this and the next couple of wineries I have to say that I now view the Oregon Pinot is a much more favourable light. The Willamette Valley, just south of Portland is the best region here. The key here is aspects that give protection from the Pacific and therefore western slopes of the valley are better. Of the individual terrior then the highlight is Dundee Hills, which as well as the correct aspect has prized red volcanic soils. The next most important grape after Pinot Noir is Pinot Gris, which is also ideally suited to the cool conditions. The last few vintages have been sold out and nit available outside of US but they are now looking to branch into Europe and some limited quantities are available.

www.lachinivineyards.com

Located in the Northern Willamette Valley in Oregon. It’s owned by Ron Lachini, who was on the stand. The volumes are low with around 2500 cases produced every year. The vineyards are populated with Pinot Noir from 3 different Burgundian clones.

Ana Vineyard
Dundee Hills
2006

They began working the Ana vineyard from 2004. Very light red colour. Fruity nose with hints of burgundian earthiness. Fine elegant feel to the wine. But has character and intensity to the fruit. Creaminess in balance from sometime on new oak. Good. 8/10.

S
Willamette Valley
2005

The S is for Sister as is the sister wine to the estate Pinot. It’s produced by Peter Rosback of Sineann. Blend of different vineyards. Very good expressive intents nose. Sharper more aggressive fruits. Taste not as expressive as the nose suggested. May develop? Ok but not sure how will develop. 7/10.

S
Willamette Valley
2006

Not such an aggressive nose, but a better balance of rustic farmyard earthiness. Spicier. Pepper and black fruit. Touch of raspberry. Very good and better than 2005. 8/10.

Lachini Estate
2004

From vineyards in the Dundee Hills and only 120 barrels are made. From 3 distinctive vineyards each with a different Pinot clone. Big earthy farmyard nose. Touch of pickle but it works. The nose is so distinctive and challenging. Good fruits and a long finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Lachini Estate
2005

Much bigger wine than previous year. Real Burgundian quality. Big earth nose. Big intensively. Meaty quality. Excellent to very good. 8.5/10.

Cuvee Giselle
2005

Selected from the best 8 barrels of the estate. Big earth monster here. Straight from the farmyard. Real challenge and chewiness. Great complexity as gives way to smoothness and charm. Concentrated red berries. It received a score of 92pts from Wine Spectator, much to the pride of the owner. Excellent. 9/10. £34.98.

Domaine Serene
Willamette Valley
Oregon

www.domaineserene.com

Bases in Dayton in centre of Willamette Valley, it was founded by Ken & Grace Everstad in 1989. They have put considerable investment into the winery and the results have been impressive with both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Low yields and traditional manual techniques are favoured.

Clos du Soleil
Chardonnay 2005

This is from a single vineyard from their Everstad Estate with a high elevation on the Red Hills in Dundee. Creamy oaky nose. An undercurrent of tropical flavours – mango kiwi. The taste hits you full on with the oak but then starts to give way to more complex layers. Spicy caramel. Then a good twist of bitter lemon fruit. For fans of oaky Chardonnays this is very impressive. 8.5/10.

Evenstad Estate Reserve
Pinot Noir 2004

This is a blend from the best site around the Estate vineyards in the Dundee Hills and Eola Hills. Light coloured delicate hue. Very expressive great earthy nose. Spicy butter. Oak is evident but very good balance. Rich black fruit. Smoothness and complexity of tastes. Great spicy finish. Excellent. 9/10.

Mark Bradford Vineyards
Pinot Noir 2004

This time its back to a single vineyard release. The vineyard is on the same Estate hill as the Clos du Soleil. Lighter more restrained nose. Sweeter to start but then a bitter complexity come through. Spice and black cherry. Less rounded but more subtle. Very good. 8.5/10.

Rockblock
Seven Hills Vineyard
Syrah 2004

The name comes from the rocky poor soils in the vineyard in Walla Walla Valley in eastern Oregon. Jammy sweet nose. Spicy very much Hermitage Rhone like, which is the desired effect. Bacon fat. Good bitter peppery finish. Impressive and very good. 8/10.

Yamhill Cuvee
Pinot Noir 2005

This is from pinot from different vineyards from all across the wineries holding, both from Dundee and Eola Hills. Being blended as much some of the expression has gone but a more easy wine is produced. Rounded fruit and oakiness. OK. 7/10.

Firesteed Cellars
Oregon

A Seattle based winery that started over 10 years ago as a virtual winery, buying grapes from growers and renting winery space to produce wine, similar to the concept of negociant in France. Since 2003 they have added there own winery and seem to be gradually becoming a traditional set up. They do still produce virtual wine from north Italy.

Oregon
Pinot Gris 2004

Blended from a combination of sources from both Willamette Valley and the warmer Rogue Valley. In an Alsace style which sits well. Good rounded delicate flavours. Tropical but in moderation. Good. 8/10.

Oregon
Pinot Noir 2004

Entry level Noir from a generic state wide appellation. More like the normal new world Pinot and bland and pales next to some of the far better Pinots. OK at best. 6.5/10.

Willamette Valley
Pinot Noir 2004

Much lighter in appearance. No obvious nose. Closed. No expressions. Not good. 6/10.

Cayalla
RTW 2004

This is from bought in grapes from Oregon and Washington. At least it has some character and a good earthy nose. Smooth easy style. Better. 7/10.

Citation
Pinot Noir 1998

Top wine from Firesteed and only produced in best years. Big jump up in style and quality. More intensive earth nose. Black fruit and some spice and pepper. In see 6 years in bottle before release and retail around the £35 mark. It’s by far the best wine from the winery but not up to level expected with the price tag. 7.5/10.

Citation
Pinot Noir 2000

No 1999 was released as the quality was not good enough. Lighter colour and more restrained nose. Better expressions and taste than the 1998. Earthiness farmyardy. Spic. Medicinal. Good but still not worth the money. 8/10.

Domaine Seppi Landmann
Soultmatt
Alsace

The winery is located 15km south of Colmar. For such a small holding (8ha) Seppi produces a range encompassing all the main noble grapes and styles. The wines were poured by Seppi himself and the fact that I had just read an article in the French magazine VRF about him increased my standing no end. The range is dominated by the vineyard which is his pride and joy, the Grand Cru Zinnekoepfle.

Vallée Noble
Riesling 2005

From vines outside the grand cru. Clear light colour. Easy smooth. Lemon and apple. Petrol tints in the aftertaste. Typical Alsace Riesling. OK. 7.5/10. £10.23 Amphora Wines (same for rest)

Zinnkoepfle Grand Cru
Riesling 2002

Fresh and crisp. Full of minerality. Good spectrum and complexity of flavours. Dry. Apple. Expands and develops in the mouth. Good level of acidity to handle food. Very good. 8.5/10. £16.

Cuvée Z
Sylvaner 2005

This is from the Zinnkoepfle but Sylvaner is not a ‘noble’ grape, so can’t use the name. Very good complex full flavoured nose. Melon. Creamy. Unusual taste but works well. Good. 7.5/10. £10.28.

Vallee Noble Bollenberg
Tokay Pinot Gris 2001

From vineyards along the bottom of the valley. Tight sweetish nose. Lemon sharpness. Tarty. OK. 7/10. £10.38

Vallee Noble Bollenberg
Tokay Pinot Gris VT 2003

Late harvest Pinot Gris. Tight nose but then expands very well. Has floral petal sweetness. Perfumed. Not overly sweet and an undercurrent of bitterness expands the taste profile. Complex layers of taste. Very good. 8.5/10.

Vallee Noble
Gewurztraminer 2005

Unusually light but subtle intensivity on the nose. No straight in your face lychee hit. Balanced. Long and late developing in the mouth. Good. 8/10. £10.38.

Zinnkoepfle Grand Cru
Gewurztraminer 2001

A more traditional hitting you on top of the head with a bunch of lychee nose. Really full on apricot and Chinese fruit. Spicy, star anise. Intense. Really attention demander. Excellent. 9/10.

Louis Jadot
Burgundy

Jadot is the biggest and most highly visible Burgundy producer. They produce wine from virtually every village in Burgundy (and also in Beaujolais) from generic appellation to the finest grand cru. The select that was present was a bit disappointing when consider the range available.

Les Climats
Pinot Noir Réserve 2004

Dull nose. No typical burgundian vigour. Slight fruity but too sweet taste. Not good. Seems to be aimed at people who don’t like Burgundian wine! Poor. 6/10. £12.99

Nuits Saint-Georges 2001

Better earthier nose. Light and no intensity of taste. Too general a blend, in that any character has been taken out. Not good. 6.5/10. £9.99.

Beaune 1er Cru
2001

Light clear red. Much better more intense nose. A big jump up in quality and personality. It’s a blend of 1er Cru but still has some personality. More farmyard intensity. Better. 7.5/10.

1er Cru Boucherottes
Beaune 2000

Has some earthiness but a bit disappointing for a 1er cru. No great personality. OK but nothing more. Disappointing. 7/10.

Louis Latour
Burgundy

www.louislatour.com

Jadot main rival more the most visible Burgundian producer. I can’t get my head much further than the half bottles you find in hotel room minibars! I am being a bit unfair as like Jadot they cover the full range of red and whites of the region. The whites are held in better esteem but I was tasting reds. Unlike Jadot they did have a selection of their best wines.

Cuvee Heritiers Latour
Chambertin Grand Cru 2002

From a Grand Cru that has been in Latour hands since the late 19th century. These wines are designed to be long lived and are not very approachable when young. Light coloured. Easy relaxed nose but closed. Tight harsh wine that is much too young. ?? (I don’t know enough about Burgundian wines to judge – not that good at the moment). £70.

Corton Grancey Grand Cru
2003

This is only produced in the best years and is the pick of the vineyard parcels. Again far too early to be tasting. Closed and unresponsive. Some strawberry and creaminess is starting to show. Powerful and big but no character as yet. As above??. £60.

Jean-Claude Boisset
Burgundy
www.jcboisset.fr

The producer is new to me but it is the biggest merchant based in Nuit-St-Georges and owns a host of wineries and has interests around the world. Not always had the best reputation but since early 00’s has focus more on quality since the establishment of Dom. De la Vougeraie. And a great website.

JC Boisset
Savigny les Beaune
1er Cru la Dominode 2006

Savigny-Les-Beaune is the appellation and La Dominode is a specific 1er Cru vineyard within it. This parcel dates from 1901. Easy refined nose. Smooth. Slightly bitter earthy taste. Good texture and balance. Ok to good. 7/10.

JC Boisset
Chambolle Musigny
1er Cru Les Charmes 2006

From one of the most famous 1er cru from the Chambolle appellation, there are 22 in the appellation alone. Very pale cherry. Fruity forward easy creamy nose. Chalky hints on taste. Not as intense as previous wine. Got better as taste developed though the mouth. Good. 8/10.

Dom. De la Vougeraie
Terres de Famille
Bourgogne 2004

This brings together wines from across Burgundy. Good earthy nose. Works well. Surprisingly good for such a diverse blend. Easy drinking. Good introduction to Burgundy wine. Good. 8/10.

Dom. De la Vougeraie
Gevrey-Chambertin
Les Evocelles 2003

Darker more cloudy appearance. Great earthy farmyard nose. Could have spent 10 minutes stiffing alone. Wow. This complexity and rusticity stay through to a great and long finish. I liked this wine. 9/10.

Dom. De la Vougeraie
Charmes-Chambertin
Mazoyeres GC

This is from a famous and historic grand cru. Big earth farmyard nose once more. Some subtlety to start on tasting but then waves of fruit come though. Has a bitterness which holds the extravagance together. Chocolate and dates. Excellent. 9/10.

Chapoutier

2007-12-23T17:07:00.000Z

M. Chapoutier

www.chapoutier.com
18 avenue Dr Paul Durand
26600 Tain-l’Hermitage

One of the most well known and important names in the Rhone. They produce wines from all over the Rhone as a major negociant but it is in their home of Hermitage that they really excel in vineyards owned by the family for centuries. The winery was formed in 1808 by the wonderfully named Polydor Chapoutier and the firm is now in the 7th generation. The two brothers, Michel and Marc came to run the winery in the late 70’s. The last 20 years have really seem the winery driven forward both in terms of quality (it’s now biodynamic) and commercially. They now have interests in other parts of France (Roussillon) and in Australia as well. From the Rhone they produce wine from nearly every appellation and they range from good every day generic appellation to very fine (and expensive) crus from Hermitage and Cote-Rotie.

The wines are widely available and found in most UK supermarkets. One distinctive aspect of the labels is that they have Braille impressed on them. One of the original owners of the vineyard La Sizeranne who was a pioneer of the language.

The winery is one of the more commercially astute Rhone wineries and has a welcoming shop and tasting centre in the centre of Tain. It’s just at the foot of the famed hill and as you come out of the shop and look right you get a view of the Chapoutier sign in the vineyards. It’s welcoming and has a good selection of open bottles for tasting, with only the top cru wines (all over a 100€ a bottle) not available to taste.

The following were taste at either the winery (Dec 2007) or at the Decanter Fine wine Encounter (Nov 2007).

Belleruche
Cotes du Rhône Rouge 2005

This is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah and comes from the communes of Sablet and Séguret. Light but bright red. Easy and sweetish fruits. Cherry. Some light tannins. Ok. Good value. 6€. 7.5/10.

Gigondas
2005

The Gigondas region to the north-east of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, make similar but better value wines. The blends are also similar and this in mainly Grenache (60%) and then made up with Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre. Good animal farmyard earth feel to the nose. Good fruity expressiveness. Light and easy to drink. Light and balanced tannins. Excellent. 15€. 8.5/10.

La Bernardine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

This blend is mainly Grenache and made up with Syrah. Matured in oak for 15 months. Deep red. Great animal intensity on the nose. Intensive fruit and spice. Plum, cinnamon. Spicy, pepper and cherries. Excellent depth. 9/10. 21€.

Petite Ruche
Crozes-Hermitage 2005

From the area surrounding the Hermitage appellation. It’s all syrah but lacks any of the depth and complexity of earlier wines. Easy everyday drinking. Give or take it, but it is reasonable value. 8.70€. 6.5/10.

Les Tanneurs
Saint-Peray 2006

The region is south-west of Hermitage on the opposite side of the river. Better known for sparkling wine. Predominately Marsanne but topped up with Rousanne. Touch of bitterness comes through. Pear. Good level of acidity. OK. 9€. 7.5/10.

Pic et Chapoutier
Saint-Peray 2006

This is 100% Marsanne and is a new acquisition for Chapoutier. Smoother more elegance. Peach light nose. More richness but still with a bitter complexity to the finish. More structure. Good. 10€. 8/10.

Chante-Alouette
Hermitage Blanc 2005

This is pure Marsanne from the Hermitage hill. From a selection of south facing sites. Wonderfully honeyed nose. Great complexity and structure. Really takes the nose over a sea of senses. The honey is the lead taste ass well. Not sweet but with subtly. Powerful but smooth. Long finish. And built to develop over time. Excellent. 34.50€. 9/10.

Monier de la Sizeranne
Hermitage Rouge 2004

All Syrah as the appellation demands, it’s blended from the best of Chapoutier’s Hermitage sites. Tight strong robust wine. Deep garnet colour. Spices and pepper. Dark fruits, blackcurrant. Tannins are big and structured. Still early days for this wine this should develop over the next 20 years. Very good. 8.5/10. 40€.

Les Bécasses
Cote-Rotie 2005

This time the Syrah is topped up with a dash of Viognier. The colour is a deep dark black red. The nose burst full of crème brulee. Crisp caramel and cinnamon. Fantastic. This stays through on tasting. Full on and dense. Tannins. Built to last. Excellent. 9/10. 38.50€.

Hermitage

2007-12-23T14:10:00.000Z

Hermitage

As you follow the Rhone north out of Valance, the town that marks the boundary between the regions dominated as north and south Rhone, you start to notice the geography become hillier as the open flood plan is replaced by more classic valley sides. One of these hills dominates the east bank and the river valley below. This is both in terms of geographically and the quality of the vineyards. The hill is called L’Hermitage and stands above the town of Tain l’Hermitage.

Hermitage produces both white and red grapes. Of the red grapes there is only undisputed king here and it produces some of the most classic examples of its types and is very much the home of Syrah. Eve the name Hermitage used to be used in the new world in direct replacement for the name Syrah, Grange being the most famous example. The whites are almost as famous and here two grape dominate, Marsanne and Rousanne.

The appellation is only 131ha and is dominated by some of the famous names, synonymous with this part of Rhone, Jaboulet, Chave, and Chapoutier. These names literally dominate the landscape as many are displayed across parts of their sacred vineyards. The hill is split up into 7 (or 11) crus, or lieux-dits, with differing terriors and some of these are monopoles (being owned by a single winery). Only one producer has vines in 8, Jean-Louis Chave.

The 9 lieux-dits are

Les Bessards Western slope, steep granite soils. Structure, power.
Maison Blanche Higher terraces. Deeper soils. Red and white
L’Hermitage (Ermite) From the tops of the hill around the chapel. Deeper and cooler.
Le Meal Stony, exposed, midslope. Most complex reds.
Beaume Pudding stone covered. Tight but fine reds.
Le Péléat Sandy clay. Elegance and finesse.
Le Gréiffieux Brown limestone clay. Balanced and fruity. Mid terrace.
Diognieres Robust styled red.
Rocoule Limestone terrior more used for whites.

However the best wines are made up of blends from various crus to give them the required character and balance. The leading producers and there top cuvees are as follows.

M. Chapoutier L’Ermite (R/W) from vineyards around the chapel at the top of the hill.
La Pavillon ( R)
La Meal (R/W)
Jean-Louis Chave Blended from 8 crus (Le Bessards and Le Meal two key ones).
Delas Le Bessards
Marquise de la Tourette (Le Bessards +)
Jaboulet Aine La Chapelle (La Meal / L’Ermite).
Cave Tain L’Hermitage is a good cooperative with a big holding of good vineyard sites around the Hermitage hill.

Avignon and Chateauneuf-du-Pape

2007-12-21T15:24:00.000Z

After a two hour drive from Perpignan I arrived in Avignon in enough time to find the hotel and head out for some food. The first impressions of Avignon were impressive and the old town is surrounded by nearly intact medival city walls. Its nestled along the Rhone as you would expect for a city famous for its bridge and the setting for the song "sur le pont d'Avignon".

Found a bistro on the main market square which in line with every other city in Europe now was hosting its 'traditional' Christmas fair. Someone somewhere has made a fortune selling those wooden festive huts. Nothing to fancy to eat just a steak and frites accompanied by the owner black scotty dog. on wine front I had a half bottle of

Chateau Blanc

Cotes du Ventoux

2006

The name should of warned me but this red wine was pretty ropey. No balance and a strange aroma. I am pretty certain that it was corked. Not good. 5/10.

This morning I got up early and had a walk around the old city. It ws owned by the Vatican from 1300 and was actually the seat of the papacy for most of the 14th Century and 7 popes were based there. The city was still controlled by the Pope until it was taken back by France in the late 18th Century.

This gave raise to some spectacular architecture including the Palais de Papes, a massive Gothic structure that was the powerbase for the Popes and resembles much more a fortress.

And no visit would be complete without seeing the famous bridge or what is left of it. There is now only 4 arches of the original 20 in place. For those that remember the song its something to do with folk dancers on the bridge.

A quick drive through Chateauneuf-du-Pape on my way north. Justly famed for it blended red and white wines the terrior is pretty unique with many of the vineyards made up a large red round pebble/boulders about 4 inches across. The offical name for these is galets roules. these are particularly pronounced around Chateau Beaucastel were the Perrin family produce some of the best wine in France.

Next it was north again to Tain-l'Hermitage and the site of the famous Herimtage hill, and its steely meaty Syrah reds.

First stage of tour of France

2007-12-19T15:15:00.000Z

Got down to Perpignan safely. The weather through France took a turn for the worse and the temperature droped as low as -7C, but at least it was clear. I know have two days of work at Perpignan to sort a few projects out before the Xmas break and to clear my stuff from the appartment that had rented down there. It's suprising how I had collected up but not helped by the fact that the car was also full with a combination of transporting my wine collection out to Belgium and a boot full of presents.

The next two days I am driving up to Belgium via over night stops in Avignon and Vienne (that's a twon just south of Lyon, not Vienna).

A weekend back at my parents

2007-12-17T15:03:00.000Z

Just catching up with a few blogs and musings.

Last weekend we headed down to Somerset for a pre Christmas trip to see my Mum and dad and sisters before heading back to France. It was the first part of a driving filled week for me as from Weston on Sunday we were heading up to Stansted to rop Nancy off and then I was heading to Dover to pick up the ferry and then to drive (via an overnight stop) to Perpignan.

Saturday night saw us all met up for a family meal. We went to a pub called the Langford Arms in Langford just outside of Weston. It was very good to go to a pub that did a good selection of food but that hadn't either been upgradd to a fashionable gastropub or that wasn't part of a big pre packaged pub chain. And this pub also was still functionig as the local for the village as the front rooms were still very much in traditional public bar mode, even down to a pair of locals playing cribbage. And the food was very good too.

Goose

2007-12-12T21:37:00.000Z

And the goose for Christmas (actually New Year) is ordered....

A 4 kilo bird from Clerkes farm. www.clerkesfarm.com

Its free range so hopefully it blissfully roaming around the Essex downs as we speak. We have to pick up from the farm on 29th.

Spanish wines

2007-12-12T21:36:00.000Z

Muga
Rioja
2000

Dark brown red colour. Good open cherry blackcurrent nose. Open and easy to drink. Hnts of oaky creaminess. It’s a blend mainly of Tempranillo with Granacha, Mazuelo and Graniano. And has been matured for 12 months in oak and then kept for 3 years in bottle before release. Good relaxed Rioja. 8/10.

Casa Ermita Reserva
Yellow label
2004

Dark thick red. Velvety texture. Rancid sherry like nose. Hints of an oxygenised style. Almonds and black fruit. Interesting but not convinced it works. A touch awkward. Am also not convinced there wasn’t a fault with the wine. 6.5/10.

Paella lesson

2007-12-11T05:33:00.000Z

And so to Eduardo Martinez’s house in Murcia for my Paella lesson.

The first key bit of information is the importance of a proper paella pan. Large round and flat, with short sides, its designed to llow even and open cooking. The heat source is also critical. Eduardo has a special electric paella hob which fits perfectly the bottom of the pan. Ideally an open flame and adaptor that fit over a normal gas bob can be bought to even the heat over the bottom of a larger pan. The objective is to allow even cooking without needing to stir.

We were cooking a seafood paella but a paella can have a range of different ingredients. The traditional paella is made with chicken, rabbit and snails, while in Murcia a vegetarian version is popular. But for our version it was all down to fresh ingredients, langiustines, clams, red prawns, squid. Rather than start with a home made stock its easier to have a ready bought tetra brick of fish stock.

1. Heat some olive oil on low heat in the paella dish.
2. Weight out the rice, approx 75g per person. The volume of rice to liquid is very important and needs to be 1 part rice to 2.5 parts liquid.
3. Next add paprika, end of a knife’s worth.
4. Increase the heat to high and add the claims and then the chopped squid.
5. Cook for 2 mins and add the shrimps and cook for approx 4 more minutes.
6. Add the stock.
7. Next add a touch of saffron.
8. Heat any remaining stock in case it starts to dry out.
9. Now add the langiustines.
10. Boil on high heat for 1 minute.
11. Now add the rice by hand evenly through out the pan. No stirring.
12 Turn the heat down and cook for 15 to 17 minutes.
13. Take of the heat a leave covered with linen cloth for 2 minutes.

Serve.

Thanks you Eduardo it was superb.

A few notes from November

2007-12-02T22:20:00.000Z

A few wne notes from the last few weeks.

Penny Farthing
2006
Berton Vineyards
SE Australia

This is a good Aussie take on two French white grape, Semillon and Viognier. Not that you would ever see this blend back in the mother country, its take a bit of Aussie imagination and works very well. From old vines at least 25 years old. Bright tropical nose. Full of citrics and melon. OK. 7/10.

Clos de la Mure
Cotes du Rhone
2004

This big red blend hails from the Massif D'Uchaux and is a big chewy Rhone red. Dominated by Syrah and Grenache. Spicy and full of black pepper. Touch of chocolate on taste. Black fruits. Some tannic chewiness. OK. 7/10. £5.92, Wine Society.

Mad Fish
Riesling 2004
Western Australia

Aussie riesling really is a great original take on an old noble grape. Fresh tarty and full of itself. Easy to drink. Bright and clean. Acidic enough to handle food. There are more and more example of good Aus riesling in supermarkets recently, Tesco, for example, seems to have taken on a good range in the £8 to £12 range. Good bright wine. 8/10. £7.99 Wine Society

Martin Codax
Albarino
Riax Baixes 2006

Albario is by far the best white graoe from Spain and the best examples are from the north west of the country in Galica. This was a very good example from one of the most well known supplier in Riax Baixes. Opens up with wave of subtle peach and pineapple. Great depth and complexity of layers. Undercurrents of honey. Very good. 8.5/10.

Rocca Alata
Amarone della Valapolicella
2004

Amarone, from just north of Verona, is made by drying out grape in the Italian sun. It produces a rich thich porty wine which can be wonderful. If you have never tried one and like rich flavours than I recommend trying an example. This one was from Tesco. Rich but obvious flavours. Some porty cassis on nose. Smooth silky texture. No tannins. Not the best example of a Amarone but OK. 7.5/10. £9.95. Tesco.

Spain

2007-12-02T22:14:00.000Z

I will be based in Murcia for most of the time until March. As well as the day job of implementing an ERP system into our fatory down here I ilke to have a few personal projects relevant to the area. For these, firstly (no surprise) is to get to know the local wine, and Spanish wine in general. On the food front my first project is Paella. What is it? There is no answer to that as seems to mean something different to every Spanard I speak to. On Wednesday I am going around to a colleagues home and he will teach me how to cook a Paella. Can't wait...

Jumilla and Loire

2007-11-25T20:45:00.000Z

Canador
Jumilla
Reserva 2001
Eroski own label

I brought this back to Belgium untried after picking up at an Eroski supermarket in Murcia. I was slightly worried at what I would get for the 3€ price but then wine tends to be a lot cheaper in Spain. It’s a blend of Tempranillo and Monastrell, and has been matured for 12 months in oak barrels and 24 in the bottle. From what I can get frm the label the wine is made in winery called Bodega Garcia Carrion. Its quite light in colour but with a good cherry hue. Easy but spicy nose with hints of pepper. Fruity taste, black current, pepper and a slight tannic hit. Good value for money and a pleasant drink. 7.5/10.

Cave de la Fremonderie
Muscadet Sevre et Maine
Sur Lie
2005

This is produced from the local Muscadet grape just outside of Nantes on the mouth of the Loire. The ‘sur lie’ means it was aged on its lees before bottling, basicly it means its was left in tanks with it residual (bits of grape). Good light easy white. A reasonable level of acidity. Works well with mussels, which is what it is well known for. Easy not intrusive wine. 6.5/10.

Megavino 2007

2007-11-24T18:09:00.000Z

Megavino
Brussels
2007-10-30

This is the annual wine exhibition in Brussels. It was good, informative and the stand hosts friendly and relaxed. Much more relaxed than the Wineshow that we went to in London the following week. These are a selection of some of the wimes that we tasted.

Domaine L’Ancienne Mercerie Couture
Faugéres
2001

A Languedoc based appellation mainly based on its reds. Nutty nose. Tannins but works ok. Nuts are the dominant taste. Interesting wine. Good. 7.5/10. Credo 12.81€.

Chateau Tailleurguet
Chene 1999
Madiran

Chene is French for oak. Big wine. Harsh and big tannic hit. Really pulls the teeth. Need food. Ok (needs food to appreciate) 7/10.

Domaine de Labarthe Guillaume
2002
Gaillac

Red wine from the south west of France. Pepper and cream abound. Not keen on. 6/10.

The following wines are all from Georgia.

Teliani Valley
Napareuli 2004
Kakheti ac

This is from 100% Saperavi grape from the Napareuli vineyard on left bank of the Alazani river. The Kakheti region is to the far east of Georgia, the non Black Sea side. It’s unfiltered. Big dark wine. Big earthy nose full of spice. Black fruits and spice abound. Good tannic finish. Best of the range. Very good. 8.5/10.

Teliani Valley
Saperavi 2004
Kakheti ac

Again a 100% Saperavi but this is from the Reserve range. Again unfiltered and this time from hand selected grapes from across the Tsinandali vineyards. Sweeter more intense blockbuster style. More oak maturing seems to of taken place. More fuller bodied and plum blackcurrant. Rounded and easy. Good 7.5/10.

Teliani Valley
Mukuzani 2004
Kakheti ac

This times the same grape but from the Mukuzani and Tsinandali vineyards from the right bank of Alazani river. More rounded easier oaky influenced. More approachable. Oak is in balance and a friendly fruity wine. Works well. Good. 8/10.

Teliani Valley
Teliani 2004
Kakheti

From the same area but this time from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s also had aging in French oak and is aimed a more general international style. Clearer than the others. Easy fruits and creamy texture. Smooth rounded and a good example of what they were aiming for. Good. 8/10.

Weingut Steffin-Prum
Maring-Noviand
Mosel
Germany

Silberner Kammerpreis
Riesling Spatlese
Trocken
2006

Slight off dry to sweet. Smooth. OK. 6.5/10. 6.40€

Silberner Kammerpreis
Riesling Spatlese
Feinherb
2006

More residual sugar and hence sweeter. This works much better than the previous from same vineyard. More balance and purpose. Good. 7.5/10 6.40€

Lesura
Goldener Kammerpreis
Riesling Spatlese
2006

Much finer nose. Real complexity and journey around flavours. Big jump in sweetness but work very well. Good value. 7.90€. 8/10.

The stand seems to be sponsored by

www.california-wines.org

Esser Vineyards
Merlot 2005
California

Easy modern fruity style of wine. Seen some oak but none the worse for it. OK. 7/10.

Zaca Mesa Winery
Z Cuvee
2004
Santa Ynez
California

A Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault blend inspired by Chateauneuf de Pape. Rich creamy substantial wine. Head full of pepper and spice. Big but very drinkable. Fruit comes through. Very good. 8.5/10.

Zaca Mesa Winery
Syrah
2003
Santa Ynez
California

A great flowing wine. Spicy and big black pepper hit. Smoothness and richness. Black fruit and a minimal tannic layer. Very good. 8.5/10.

Bighorn Cellar
Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000

This 100% Cab has an herby medicinal nose but too much greenness. Big chewy tannins. Should be better than is. Not quite working and little balance. Not keen on. 6/10.

Austria Wine

The following was from

Kurt Ryslavy
De Oostenrijke Wijn
Place Van Hoegaerdeplein 22
B-1081 Brussel
DeWijn.LeVin@ryslavy.com

A very good and large selection of top Austrian wineries.

Weingut Willi Brundlmayer
Langenlois
Kamptal

This is one of the best and most visible of Austria’s winemakers. He has some 75ha in the Kamptal, west of Vienna, along the steep terraces bordering the Danube.

Steinmassel
Riesling
2005

This is from a single cru vineyard, the Steinmassel. The terrior is a mix of mica-schiest (slate like) and this tight stony soil produces small berried fruit full of concentration. Slow pressed and then matured in stainless steel. Exceptionally Riesling nose, great balanced. Citric. Sharp to start and good level of acidity. Should be able to handle strong flavoured food. Finesse, long finish and very good balance. Very good. 8.5/10. 18.01€

Zobinger Heiligenstein
Riesling Alte Reben
2006

From the oldest vines from the cru vineyard Zobinger H, these average 45 years with some as old as 75 years. From very old sandstone and volcanic bed rock. Very expressive concentrated nose. Big meaty, smoky intense feel to the wine. Big flowing body. Voluptuous. Pineapple, dried apricot bitterness at end. Long finish. Excellent. 9/10. 31.60€.

Leicht und Trocken (L&T)
Gruner Veltliner
2006

Lightest youngest wine of the vintage. Fresh easy aperitif. Texture has a residual of sparkling CO2. Pear and apple. Light alcohol contents at 11%. Easy drinking. OK. 7/10. 7.43€.

Loiser Berg
Gruner Veltliner
2005

This is from the Loiser Berg but is distinct in that it is grown on wind exposed south to south east facing slopes. Grown on broken down granite soils. Full on intensive apple and citric nose. Sharp and acidity is high. Touch to tarty. 7/10. 13.94€.

Weingut Alois Kracher
Illmitz
Neusiedlersee
Burgenland

Alois Kracher is another high profile Austrian but his fame is derived from sweet wines. In the far east of the country is the large and very shallow Neusiedl Lake. Hot dry summer and very cold winters, and most importantly in autumn the thick evening fogs that are then dissolved by early sun. These are the perfect conditions for Botrytis cinerea, better know as noble rot, which produces most of the great sweet wines of the world.

Cuvee Auslese
2006

This is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Welschrieling. It’s matured for 6 months in stainless steel. Lovely clear crisp clean nose. Not overly sweet, but a good balance of honeyed currents. Very good. 8/10. 8.97€.

Cuvee Beerenaulese
2005

This late harvested wine is also a blend but this time with 80% Chardonnay. Big jump up in intensively. Rich honey and apricot. Very good. 8.5/10. 13.68€.

Weingut Hans & Anita Nittnaus
Gols
Neusiedlersee
Burgenland

TBA
2004

Another late harvested sweet wine. Produced from a Chardonnay/ Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Excellent. Raisins, sultanas and honey. Real wow intensity. 9/10. 22.46€

Weingut F.X Pichler
Oberloiben
Wachau

Kellerberg
Riesling Smaragd
2002

From a single vineyard. Dry but expressive. Complex and meaty white. Balanced, rounded and elegant. Long finish. Very good and will develop and improve through time. 8/10. 41.22€.

Weingut Peter Schnabl
Retz
Weinviertel

BIO-Riesling
2006

A biodynamic producer. Nutty almond nose. Crisp easy wine. OK. 10.61€.

Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg
Kamptal

Kammerner Renner
Gruner Veltliner
2005

Another single vineyard wine. Though a dry wine this was more off dry in style. High level of acidity. Some apple and white fruit but not as good as some of the other wines tasted. OK. 6.5/10. 15.38€.

Wine notes November

2007-11-18T13:45:00.000Z

Louis Roederer
Brut nv
Champagne

The joys of having friends who have a Belgian Champagne import business. We were out for dinner with them but the evening started at their house with an aperitif. This was the first time I had tasted this famous champagne house, headed by the great Cristal. A full on champagne. Strong biscuit creamy and velvet texture. Elegant and smooth, but substantial enough to be drunk with food. Excellent. 8.5/10.

Chateau des Aladeres
Corbieres
2004

In the Sigean area of Corbieres close to the sea. Bright fruity nose. Easy fruit comes through. A touch of spiciness. Good finish. A good example of the great value of everyday wines from Corbieres. Good. 7/10. 4€.

Preiss-Zimmer
Riesling
2006
Alsace

As a well known lover of Alsace wine I was looking forward to this. A cheap and cheerful offering from Carrefour. Slight too sweet and tarty. But ok and enough acidity to handle the marinated fish I was eating. A hint of apple and pear. OKish. Only 3€. 6/10.

Mas Mudigliza
CaudaLouis 2006
VdP Cotes Catalanes

This is 100% Grenache Gris and is made by the wine making pair of Dimitri Glipa & Muriel Samson. From up in the hill inland from Perpignan. Big knock your head of nose. Full of almonds and oak. Settled down after a bit of breathing space. Big chewy wine for a white. Nought. Ok but not my style. 7/10. Carefour.€8.50.

Stuffed Chicken Legs with mushroom and pinenuts

2007-11-11T16:54:00.000Z

I got back from Spain early enough on Friday to be able to try a bit of creativity in the kitchen in the evening. I had taken an american magazine, Wine Spectator, down to Spain and was inspired by an article on the joys of stuffing to try one of the recipe from them.

Stuffed Chicken Legs with Mushrooms and Pine Nuts

Original taken from Wine Spectator Oct 08

For 4

1 tbl olive oil
1 tbl butter
2 shallots, fine chopped
2 small cloves garlic, fine chopped
200g mushrooms, fine chopped
1/3 cup Maderia (the recipe aske for Masala but couldn't get any in the supermarket)
½ cup pint nuts, light toasted
80g pecorino-Romano cheese, in ¼” slices
2tbl chopped basil
1 cup breadcrumbs
1 egg, beaten
4 large chicken legs

Heat oil& butter in frying pan, medium heat. Add shallots & galic till softens and browns. Increase heat a bit, add mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes. Add marsala and cook until only 1/4 liq left.
Trf to bowl and cool to room temp. Add pinenuts, cheese, basil, bread, season and mix well. Add egg and mix. The smell was very good.

Bone chicken leg, this took a lot longer than I had expected, and was not helped by the fact that my boning knife was in UK and I was not using the sharpest knife in the world. Pound open legs to even out, and season inside.
Oven to 200C.

Stuff 2 tbl of mixture into each middle of leg. Fold over and secure with. Tuck sides in and secure with string. Transfer seem down to ovenproof pan. Cook 10 mins. Turn leg over and cook 20 min more.
Rest 5 mins cover loose foil. Remove string cut into slices.

Served with pasta and made a very nice sauce by deglazing the pan with 2/3 a cup of Maderia, thickened and then added butter.

Worked very well. The stuffing was really tasty and the cheese and maderia worked very well. I will definately use the stuffing again.

The dinner was accompanied with two very good wines.

Vionta
Albarino 2006
Rias Baixas
Galica
Spain

The Albarino garapes makes by far the best white wines from Spain. Its produced in a number regions in the north west of Spain and the best known is Rias Baixes. This is from 100% Albarino. Is has a golden yellow hue. Floral nose. Crisp with a good level of acidity and a medium body. Long finish. Food friendly. Very good. 8.5/10.

Banfi
Cum Laude 2001
Sant'Antimo doc
Tuscany
Italy

We brought this bottle back from Italy after a visit to the castello. Its a super tuscan and is made from a blend of local and international grapes. The blend is Sangioviese (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, Merlot 30% and the 15% Syrah. It has been matured for 14 months in french oak barrels. Quite a light coloured winebut big bodied. Full fruit aroma and tastes. Cherries. Pepper finish and a good level of tannic backbone. Very goo/ excellent. 8.5/10.

Jumilla Petit Verdot

2007-11-07T18:39:00.000Z

And once more eating in the hotel. This time lamb chops were the choice and a better choice than the night before. Very tasty and interestly finished off by being fried in batter. Tasted better than in sounds.

And on the wine front back to the local stuff.

Luzon
Petit Verdot 2006
Jumilla

The bottle itself was a bit off putting with a very bright pink label and bright yellow labelling. Am not sure it will do much for getting bottles of shelves. The wine itself was nothing like the bottle. A deep dark inky black. Full of bramble and plum. A hint of oak to give it creaminess. Some tannins, just enough to give it structure. A slight touch of pepper. Big bodied. Worked well with the lamb. Very good. 8/10.

Greeting from Spain

2007-11-06T18:57:00.000Z

This is my second day down here in Murcia again. Arrived yesterday afternoon after flying to Valancia and then a 3 hour drive to work.

Last night it was once more to the hotel restaurant to see what exciting tasting dishes were on offer. The highlights of the starters were boguerones en vinagre con hojaldre frito, which is anchovies on a filo pastry layer, which were very tasty, and the Zarangollo, which is scrambled eggs with onion and zucchini. This was very good and worked better than was expecting.

My main course was Caldero de mar menor with grey mullet. Caldero is a local speciality and is made from rice from the local inland sea. Gig sweetish thick beefy mass of risotto like rice. A red brown colour and hard work. It was very tasty full of beef with a sweetness. The fish was also good. Too ñuch though and only managed half.

Had a couple of glasses of white wine to accompany it.

Nuviana
Chardonnay 2006
Valle del Cinca
Aragon
Spain

This is a 100% unoaked Chardonnay and is produced by the Nuviana winery on the hot Aragon plains. It,s actually owned by the Codorniu group, better known for Cava. Deep yellow gold colour. Smooth round nose with subtle tropical hints. Sililar through tasting. Good complexity and a subtle array of tropical fruit - mango, pineapple. Good level of acidity. Works very well. Very good. 8.5/10.

More wine notes

2007-11-04T19:16:00.000Z

Castillo de Luzon
Crianza 2002
Jumilla

Monestril based red blend. Dark inky black. Red fruits. Pepper and spicy and grows as wrms and opens to the air. Got better through the bottle. Black pepper. VG. Works well with red meat. 8.5/10.

Groot Constania
Merlot 2001
Constantia
South Africa

Big earthy nose. Very unmerlot like. Earthy farm yard nose. VG to start. Great range of flavours. Spicy edge. Really good merlot (I'm not always a great Merlot fan but this is good). Very good. 8.5/10.

Chateau Montner
Premium 2005
Cotes du Roussillon Village

I have raved about this before and will do again. Great wine and fantasic value from a Roussillon cooperative. It's only 5€ but beats wines 3 times the price. 9/10.

Cotes Rocheuses
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
2001

This is a merlot based blend. Big earthy nose. Farmyardy. Spicy red fruit. Good tannic balance. Dry finish. Good. 7.5/10.

South African wines

2007-11-03T18:50:00.000Z

A Friday night to relax for a change. I flew in earlier in the morning so none of the usually travelling on Friday afternoon/ evening.

Trying out a couple of new recipes and combining with a couple of south African wines.

Tuna in filo pastry worked well.

Nuwehoop
Chenin Blanc
2006
Western Cape
South Africa

Chenin Blanc can work well well in South Africa. This was forward but a bit too acidic. Tropical fruit comes through on nose and in the taste. Mango. The structure of the wine has missed the mark. 6.5/10. Carrefour. 4.30€.

Duck breast with an orange sauce and fondant potatoes.

Nancy made this as well and it was very good. Duck breast is a much more everyday food in France and Belgium than back home and is always available in skin on cuts in the supermarkets. In Roussillon you see much more of it in restaurants than chicken. The fondant potatoes are cooked in chicken stock and butter. They were very creamy and worked well the next day as well.

La Motte
Shiraz
2005
Western Cape
South Africa

Based in Franschhoek Valley and produced by the wine maker Edmund Terblanche, La Motte is a commercial but respected winery. Dark and deep red black. Pepper is the first and last thing that hits you. Some tannins and works with blackfruit. Good. 7.5/10.

Wine notes

2007-10-31T17:24:00.000Z

A range of tasting notes from the last couple of months, mainly, of course, from France as that’s where I’m based.

Domaine du Manay
Menetou-Salon
2005

A new appellation to me, this is on the Loire west of Sancerre. This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, but the appellation also produced Pinot Noir reds. Good pear drop and gooseberry nose promises well. The pear carries through in mouth. Acidity but hints of an alcoholic burn. Slight bitterness at finish. OK but nothing more. 7/10.

Chateau Montauriol
Tradition 2004
Fronton

This region is from the south west of France, near to Toulouse. This red is made from 60% Negrette (this is very much a local grape to the Toulouse area), 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah. Dark deep inky black. Creamy, blackcurrent oaky nose. Big hint of cream soda. Bit too much oak. Cherry and blackcurrent. Dry intense tannins. Long chalky finish. Interesting wine. Good. 7.5/10.

Mendia
Irouleguy
2005

This red is from a region nestled up in the foothills of the north Pyrenees, and as the label shows proudly Basque. It’s a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannet. Light bright Pinot like appearance. Medicinal smooth light nose. Raspberry and cedar. Easy cherry roundness. Light tannins, smooth but enough dry grip to handle food. Good. 8/10.

Chateau Cote Montpezat
Cotes de Castillon
2005

This Bordeaux right bank red is from a chateaux owned by Les Vinobles Bessineau. From the great vintage (2005 seems to be one of the all time great vintages through Europe). 70 % merlot, 20 % cabernet franc et 10 % cabernet sauvignon, and all handpicked. Ticked all the right buttons but a bit on the young side. Blackcurrent and cassis. Tannins and feel of old leather. Good. 8/10.

Opidum
2005
Ribera del Duero

I was given this by a Spanish colleague. Good easy red. Smooth and enough fruit and a touch of complexity to suit food. Touch of pepper. Good and great value as seems to be around the 5€ mark. 8/10.

Chateau Haut Montel
Cuvee Prestige 2001
Saint-Drezery
Coteaux du Languedoc

This seems to be a new sub region in giant Languedoc appellation. I was looking forward to this but alas it seemed to be faulty (at least I hope so). Full of CO2. Sparkly! Not good. 4/10.

Venison and a poor choice of wine

2007-10-28T18:56:00.000Z

Saturday evening we had an evening in cooking and drinking wine.

We had a very good ducks liver pate to start, no cooking but picked up from Waitrose. Accompanied by toast and a half bottle of sweet wine.

Chateau Gaudrelle
Vouvray 2006
Reserve Speciale
Moulleaux

This is made from handpicked Chenin Blanc. The winery is situated in region Vouvray along the lower Loire in France. It’s an historic site where wine has been produced since 1537, and the latest to run the family vineyards is Alexandre Monmousseau. Good apply nose with hints of honey. Dried fruits. Sultanas. Not overly sweet but good balance. Works well with the pate. Good. 8/10.

For the main course we once more consulted Gordon Ramsey’s Sunday Lunch and Nancy selected the Venison with a Red Wine and Chocolate Sauce. This was accompanied with Savoy Cabbage and Dauphanise Potatoes.

The Venison worked very well and the chocolate and red wine sauce also worked surprisingly well. It gives a hint of chocolate without being too over powering. A good balance of flavours. The cabbage was good with double cream added to give a good structure. The only thing that wasn’t a success was the potatoes. They were not done enough so we kept them back and I will reheat and cook again today.

The wine to accompany by an Australian shiraz.

Capel Vale
Kinnaird Shiraz 2000
Western Australia

This is 100% Shiraz from a single vineyard called The Kinnaird from the Mount Barker region. I decanted this to allow it to breath and worked well. A big raspberry nose filled the room. Deep dark in colour and full of fruit. Raspberry and strawberry lead a red fruit charge. Some tannins but worked well until accompanied with the wine and chocolate sauce. Chocolate can be a killer for all but the biggest most powerful red and often it needs a sweet wine to stand up to it. This shiraz was just not bigger enough to hold its own. Should of known better. Pre chocolate – very good 8.5/10.

Rugby

2007-10-20T13:47:00.000+01:00

And so the big game approaches.... Just one more superb performance.

Come on England!!!!!!

Superb wine from Murcia

2007-10-20T13:35:00.000+01:00

Wednesday we were once more eating in the hotel after a busy day. The weather has continued to be terrible. We went out for lunch only to find the local town under some 6 inches of water. And then managed to get away from work to watch the football! Pathetic example of how to thrown a match.

Still the food was great as usual, and this time the wine we choose was fantasitic.

Juan Gill
Monastrell 2004
Jumilla
Murcia

Juan Gill is pretty much at the pinacle of Murcia wine producers. The volumnes are that high but the results have reached the attention of the international wine media especially in America where a recent series of 90+ scores have sent demand soaring. The top cuvees here are priced in the £50+ but this is the standard Jumilla. The Monastrell is from a parcel of 40 year old grapes on a shallow chalky soil atop of limestone. The wine spends 12 months in french oak. This wine was server in special wide glasses. A deep dark cherry colour. A wonderful full cherry with a smooth lashing of cream from the oak. The cherry stays tthrough on tasting, spicies and a touch of pepper. A satisfying dash of tannins to give structure. Excellent modern styled wine. 9/10.

Murcia

2007-10-17T18:17:00.000+01:00

This week I am down in Murcia in Spain working. After looking forward to escaping to a warmer clime it has poured with rain most of the time since arrived here. Last night we ate in the hotel, which is normally a good option as the food is very good. Last nights was no exeption. The starter is always a tasting selection of which the highlight was the aspergus soup, For main the unusual combination of duck, cherry and pear was interesting but not convinced it worked. The cooked cherries and sauce killed too much of the duck flavour.

As you may know I am quite a fan of the local Murcia wines, in particular the reds from Jumilla, and so tried another winery from there.

Valle del Carche
Monastrell 2005
Jovan

Cherry purple but bright appearence with should its youth. The nose was a little of putting with unbalanced and obtrusive sense. A colleague from the local area had warned me that some of the young wine needs 20 minutes open to loss it taint and to open up and this was the case here. And yes 20 minutes any unpleasentness had evapourated and the nose was full of welcoming spices. Spice and hints of chocolate. Touch of cassis. Got better as it breathed. Ok to good. 6,5 to start but then 7.5/10.

Cooking food, wine and rugby

2007-10-14T13:15:00.000+01:00

Back in the UK this weekend and we had my Mum and Dad visiting on Saturday night, so planned to stay in, trying cooking something different and then settle down to see if England could do the impossible once more and beat France.

The menu was pulled out of a combination of Gordon Ramsey's Sunday Lunch and this months delicious magazine.

As aperatif

Spy Mountain
Riesling 2007
Marlborough
New Zealand

These new world rielsings, especially from Australia, have been behind the riesling revival. New Zealand have also now joined the party and are a good source of easy, bright refreshing wines. This was picked up from Tesco and in there latest range they have increased the number of better quality new world rieslings. This was an ideal aperafif, light easy to drink, bright and off dry. Full of weighty citrus with light honey aound the edge. Good. 7.5/10. £8.99 Tesco.

Starter was modified version of a smoked haddock and prawn pilau.

Domaine des Chartreux
Riesling 2004
Alsace

A light Alsace riesling weighing in at only 11.5%. Slightly drier in style than the previous wine. More classic Rieling nose with hinys of kerosine. Some crisp mineriality. OK. 7/10. Wine Society.

Weingut Brundlmayer
Riesling 2005
Kamptaler Terrassen
Austria

Brundlmayer is a well known Austrian producer based in the Kamptal area about 70km wesy of Vienna. Drier still. More refined styled. Minerality and complexity. Quite floral in style with good welcoming nose. Well balanced and a good long finish and worked well with the chicken. Very good. 8/10.

Main course from Sunday Lunch was Chicken with Petits Pois a la Francaise, with sauteed potatoes. To add a bit of French influence to the build up to the game.

Dessert a tart, Glazed Pear and macadamia tart with vanilla.

And then it was 'relaxing' in front of the telly cheering on England. Great game, full of passion and commitment from England. They kept it tight and played to their strengths. and France got nervous and started to look disjointed. As soon as Michalak came on I thought England would win, he will forever suffer the scars of 4 years ago and it showed again. Fantasitc stuff.

To toast the win it had to be a French stickie.

Mas Amiel
Plenitude L 03
Passerille sur Schiste

We first tasted this earlier in the year when we visited the winery which is some 20 miles north of Perpignan. This is made from 100% Maccabeu which is cut and left to dry out on the ground surrounding the vines. Fantastic stuff. Intense sweet herby nose, really takes head off. Spicy burnt orange marmalade. Full of spicies. Great complexity of flavours. Excellent. Perfect way to toast a great win. 9/10.

French wine fair

2007-10-06T10:24:00.000+01:00

One of the harbingers of autumn in France is the annual sell wine fairs that are held in all the major retailers around the country. These last for around two weeks and will they are mainly to move stock and create an additional boast to cash flow they are also a great place to pick up good wine. Some of the discounts are aimed as getting people into the store in the hope that they will pick up a few of the old stock while they are there. This year it was the 2005 Bordeaux and Burgundy that was the main attraction.

The E. Leclerc fair runs this year from 26th Sept, but we got hold of an invite for a private evening the night before. Invite in hand and know idea what to expect we head to the superstore for the 8 30pm start. The queue had already formed when we got there and the initial stampede when the doors opened (and you got past the bouncer checking the invites) was more reminiscent of a Harrods sale.

The event was very well set up. The whole of the centre (it is one of these big out of town stores with lots of other smaller stores within the same building that you have to walk past to get to the supermarket – same as in UK) was closed for the evening and the foyer was set up with tables for each of the main areas of France with wine to sample and food to munch, including roast beef, ham and oysters. The first two aisles of the store proper where full of wine for the sale itself.

The wines were split into different areas or types, i.e. Burgundy or sparkling. Most of the wine wasn’t the best by any means but there were a few good ones. The wines being discounted were a mix of very good and very cheap from top Bordeaux wines to cheap vin de pays, amongst a few bottles that I bought the highlight was getting the last 2005 Charpouter Chateauneuf de Pape for 14€ (its about £25 back home).

A few notes from the wines available for tasting.

Blanc Sec (dry whites)

Domaine Brochard
Moulin Granger
Sancerre 2006

Disappointing white from the Loire. Found it slight sweet and flabby and flat. Brochard is normally a good producer but this wasn’t. 6/10.

Domaine Montrouby
Picpoul de Pinet 2006

Picpoul is a local Languedoc grape grown pretty much only in this appellation, which is nestled again the sea near Beziers. Normally a crisp clean seafood friendly wine but this seemed oaky, creamy and seemed to have spent too much time in barrels. OK but not representative of the appellation. 6.5/10.

Burgundy

Jean Bouchard
Mercurey blanc 2004

This is a chardonnay and it has spent sometime in oak barrels, as in this case is typical for Burgundy. The oak influence seems bizarrely less than the previous wine. Some creaminess but otherwise it was bland and again flabby. Not a good night for the whites. 6/10.

Francois Martenot
Les evocelles
Gevrey Chambertin 2005

At last a good wine as I move to the reds, Red wine from burgundy always equals Pinot Noir. This is a good example from a famous wine village. Big earthy almost farmyard nose. Very good. Sweeter on taste and then red current. Very good. 8/10.

Moillard
1er Cru les Fichots
Pernand Vergelesses 2005

Not so expressive on the nose or through tasting. I should of tasted this one first as the Gevrey was a much more dominant wine. It’s ok but nothing more. Nose a bit disappointing. Ok. 7/10.

Rhone

Patrick Lesec
Bouquest 2006
Cotes du Rhone

The nose is fruity with raspberry and blackberry coming through. The test was pretty routine and middle of road. A light tannic backbone but no harmony in the balance. OK. 6.5/10.

Gabriel Meffre
La Font Boissiere 2005
Gigondas

A welcoming spicy nose. A light tannic structure has no balance with the flavours. Green and lacking. Tight dry finish. Not good. 6/10.

Domaine Louis Bernard
Grand reserve 2001
Cotes du Rhone

An almond sherry like structure to the nose. Much better balance and build than previous. Some blackfuit but they are a bit shy. Finish well and a big improvement on previous entries. Very good. 8.5/10.

Languedoc

Castelmaure
Cuvee Adelaide
Corbieres 2005

Good bright nose. Fruits easy on nose. Cherry. Easy wine. Very good value at 3€. Good. 7.5/10.

Mont Tauch
Les Quatre Vignerons
Fitou 2005

From the well known cooperative up in the Corbieres hills. This is produced from the best vines of the top 4 vignobles in the society. Big beefy harsh food wine. Well made with good structure. Chewy tannins need red meat. 8/10.

Domaine Georges Bertrand
Terrior Boutenac
Corbieres 2005

Dark brooding wine. Big earthy nose. Chewy tannins. Dark cherry. Dry mouth clinging finish. Big food wine. 8.5/10.

Roussillon

Domaine Ferre-Ribiere
Cotes du Roussillon 2004

Medium red appearance, crisp and fresh. Good almost sherry like nose. Taste full of raisins. Almonds. Has seen some oxyginisation at some point and a bit Maury like. Interesting complexion. 8/10.

Bordeaux

Chateau Labesse
Cotes de Castillon 2004

Good open fruity nose. Intense fruits – raspberry, blackberry. Modern styled wine with little tannins. OK but can see it developing. 7/10.

Riesling and UFO's

2007-09-23T11:37:00.000+01:00

Dr. Loosen
Urziger Wurzgarten 2006
Riesling Kabinett

Dr Loosen is one of the most well known wine producers in Germany and Ernest Loosen has been of the driving forces behind the resurgence in its wine over the last 10 years, something which earned him Decanter Wine Personality of year a few years ago. His Mosel headquarters are based near Graach. This newly released wine is a Kabinet which means it has the lowest level of residual sugar. But being that German wines tend to be on the sweet side it is a more off dry style. Big apple nose. This stays on tasting with the apple and pear in a slightly sweet finish. Spices and herb also in the mix. Some acidity but an easy drinking wine. Light alcohol at only 8% makes it a great aperitif. 8/10. Waitrose £11.99.

Cave de Beblenheim
Pinot Gris
Reserve 2005

This is from a cooperative from the village of Beblenheim from the centre of the Alsace wine strip. Darker in colour than the Riesling tried before hand, it has a more robust body to it, meatier feel. Slight sweet opening but finishes dry in the mouth. Smooth and rounded and easy to drink but nothing more. Nothing too memorable with it. OK. 7/10. Waitrose (current on promo £5.31 from £7).

Bonny Doon

Le Cigare Volant 2001

Santa Cruz, California.

This is one of the top reds from one of California finest and most original wine makers Randall Grahm. We visited the winery a few years ago and this wine is the top of the tree but the rest of his range is very good also. He is heavily influenced by the Rhone and this wine is his hommage to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The name Cigare Volant means Flying Cigar (thats what French call UFO) and is from a story about the local council banning an UFO's from landing and damaging the vineyards in the 1950's. It seemed to worked as to date no UFO's have landed! The wine is composed of 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 2% Viognier, 2% Cinsault and 2% Carignan. Medium blood red its it deep well of colour. The nose is pungent, full of spiceand cherry. Cassis and cherry. Pepper and an array of spice. Starts almost sweet but move to bitter cherry and then the tannic structure leaves the mouth dry at the finish. Some creaminess. Long. Complex and vry good. 9/10. Noel Young Wines £21.99.

Mosel part 2

2007-09-17T11:22:00.000+01:00

On Saturday we headed to Bernkastel. This is the most well known of the wine towns along the Mosel. In the old town it’s a maze of narrow streets and old timber houses that lean and swagger as though they have had too much of the local necter. For lunch we headed to the market square and the Ratskeller (Rats means town – I think).

Clusserath-Eifel
Trittenheimer Apotheke
Spatlese 2004 Feinherb

The first thing was the deep gold colour. Nose ws not that responsive but gave a few hints of apple. Off dry style (the hint I in the feinherb). Sharply acidic and very appley to taste. Worked very well with pate and fig starter but would be sharp on its own. Good. 7.5/10.

Gehermid J. Wegeler Erden
Bernkastel Lay
Spatlese troken 1995

We order a glass of this wine to try out a 12 year old Riesling. Darker brown gold hue to signify the age. Medium intense nose. Start it was not that good but as it breathed it got better and better. Petrol fumes. Good. 8/10.

Dr Pauly Bergweller
Bernkastel Badstube 2001
Kabinet

Medium yellow. Good interesting structure. Long finish. Balanced with apple and melon. White flowers. Very good. 8.5/10.

Bernkastel has a very good wine museum and vinotek, which is a wine tasting centre. It costs 15€ and there some 140 wines to taste in the cellar. We were a bit unlucky in our timing as a coach load of Americans and Australians had just arrived before us.

Franz-Friedrick Kern
Wehler Sonneuhur 2004
Spatlese halbtrocken

Opens with a light fruity nose but thereafter disappoints. OK but no more. 6.5/10.

Sybille Kuntz
Gold Quadet Riesling 2003 troken

This is a more modern style from a modern winemaker who has Harrods amongst her customers. Very good creamy buttery nose. Soft. Seems almost oaky. Spices and some pepper add to a very interesting complexity. Very good. 8.5/10. 15€ a bottle.

Sybille Kuntz
Riesling Trocken/ Dry 2006

This is her entry level riesling. More sharper with a good dollop of apple. OK but a bit too sharp and short. 7/10. 10€.

S.A. Prum
Kabinett trocken 2002

Generic mosel wine. Sweetish nose. Very appley and far too sharp. Not good. 5/10.

Rebenhof
Urziger Wurzgarten 2006
Kabinet trocken

Pleasant light nose. Apple tones but more in balance. Some acidity. Good value wine. 7/10.

H. Josef Fries / Markus Fries
Wehler Sonnehur 2005
Spatlese trocken

From the label it seem this winery is now in hand of the son who has changed the name and modernised the label. Good fraguent and a busy nose. Peach and apple. Good. 7.5/10.

Rebenhof
Von Rotan Schiefer
Kabinet 2006 Feinherb

The feinherb signifies more residuel sugar and it indeed jumps up in sweetness. Not my favourite style. It’s a basic level wine and would be ok for lovers of sweeter wines. 6.5/10.

Dr Pauly-Bergwieler / Peter Nichols
Bernkastel Alte Badshobe am Doctorberg 2005

From the longest vineyard name in the world! Butter and cream. Softer rounded complexion and a drier finish. Good spectrum of fruit with peach the most high profile. Very good. 8.5/10. 12.90€ per bottle.

Kees- Kieran
Graacher Domprobst 2005
Spatlese feinherb

Quite nose for a feinherb. Opens up in balanced waves of fruit – apple and peach. Minerality. Creamy. Starts sweet but evolves to a dry finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Dr. Leimbrock – C. Schmidt
Brauneberger Juffer 2006
Spatlese halbtrocken

Quiet unpromising nose but taste improves. Not too sweet but not dry either. Balanced. Long spicy finish with hints of orange peel. Good. 8/10.

Martin Conrad
Brauneberger Juffer 2006

Good balanc of flavours. Apple and citric. Creamy and a little bit oaky. Good. 8/10.

Karl O Pohl
Wehlener Sonneuhr 2005
Spatlese

Good bright and orangy springy nose. Bursts at you. Slightly on sweeter side. Good. 8/10.

Paulinshof
Brauneberger Kammer 2005
Auslese feinherb

Complexity of taste was superb. Sweetness but in balance with fruit flavours. Good substantial body. Long and creamy elegance. Very good spectrum of apple, orange and peach. Excellent and it’s the best wine tasted. 9/10. 16€.

The tasting now moved towards the sweeter spectrum of German wines.

Becker-Steinhauer
Bernkastel Juffer 2006
Auslese edelsuss

As expected this was a marked jump in sweetness. Light marmalade. A more aperitif styled wine which would work well also with fois gras. Good and only 7% alcohol. 7.5/10.

Albert Gressinger
Zeltingener Sonnenuhr 2005
Auslese

Sweeter still with great forward lux opening. Works through in smooth waves with a great myriad of tastes. Orange and lemon. Long finish. Very good and we bought a bottle. 8.5/10.

Dr. F Weins-Prum
Urziger Wurzgarten 2006
Kabinet lieblach

A lighter kabinet. Great smoothness and balance. Opens up with apple and pear. Very good. 8.5/10.

Leo Schweb
Bernkastel Lay 2001
Austese

Sweet opening but then a bit bland and one dimensional. Too acidic and generally not keen on. 6/10.

Markus Molitor
Zeltingener Himmelreich 2005
Spatlese lieblach

Very interesting and intensly bitter sweet nose. Sweetness in balance with flavours. Complex structure. Very good. 8.5/10.

Hoffman-Simon
Piesporter Goldtropfchen 2006
Austese

Good rich substantial wine. Sweet but well balanced with mineriality. Good. 8/10.

Dr. H. Thanisch. Erben Mullar-Burggraf
Bernkastel Doktor 2004
Kabinet lieblach
Bigger more substance to this wine. Starts sweet but the end has a good bitter twist. Complex. Good. 8/10.

Schmitges
Erdener Treppalen 2006
Austlese

Fizzy sweet and has very good layer of taste. Sorbet and sherbet. More of a thick sticky type. Yum. Very good. 8.5/10.

Kerpen
Wehler Sonnunuhr 2006
Spat lese

Again a sweeter styled wine. More burnt citric fruit – orange and lemons. Would go ok with pate. OK. 7/10.

Dr Pauly-Bergweiler
Bernkastel Alte Badshube am Dokterberg 2006
Spatlese

Open easy accessible and rounded. Sweet but smooth. Burnt orange marmalade. Long finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Theo Grumbach
Spatburgunder 2003

Yes it’s a red wine. Spatburgunder is better known as Pinot Noir. This has also seen some maturing in oak. Very clear almost rose. Weak bubblegum, sickly oaky. Not good (this may have been effected by the sweet wines before). Poor. 6/10.

On the way home on Sunday we made our way upstream along the Mosel as it winds its way through vineyard laiden valleys to Trier. This was our destination as well. It claims to be the oldest city in Germany and has much archeologoical based claims to be. The centre of these has to be the spectacular Ponta Negra, the massive old Roman gate. The name means black, which it is and I assume that’s not due to pollution.

Amongst the other remains the bastillica, dating from the Holy Roman Empire, is an amazing building, joined on to a more modern (only 13thC) cathedral. These are in front of a large square which is lined by building of at least 100 years old. To the left of the square is the historic wine cellar and restaurant of Reichgraf von Kesselstatt. This is where we headed for lunch.

Restaurant, Weinstube Palais Kesselstatt & Weinkellar
Liebfrauenstrasse 10
Trier

There is both a formal restaurant and a bistro type ‘weinstrube’, and it’s the latter that we headed. Sitting out side the setting is superb, with a view out to the bastilica. The only complant was the rather persistant wasp who wanted to share our lunch. There is no table menus and you have to go inside to the counter to order, which wasn’t the easiest to try and decipher but fortunately Nancy speaks fluent German and eventually we decided on the Hausmalteteller, the house cold lunch. This was a good example of local fare with malt bread and a selection of meats, sausage and ham. My only warning is that if you don’t like fat and clear gelatine then its not for you.

The wines with this where of course from the winehouse.

Riesling 2006
Graacher (ortswein)

This is a blend from different vineyards and plots around the village of Graach. Easy fruity wine full of apple and peach. Smooth and had a dry finish showing its acidity. Good. 7.5/10.

Weissburgunder 2006

To make a change from all the Riesling we tried a glass of the other noble grape in Mosel, better known as Pinot Blanc. Clean and crisp, easy and smooth. Dry finish. Toffee and coffee finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Saturday in

2007-09-16T09:42:00.000+01:00

This Saturday we had an evening to ourselves, staying in and cooking. When you are away from home during the week an evening in really is something to look forward to. Also helped me forget about the rugby from the night before.

As an aperitif and with the first course we opened a bottle of Champagne that Nancy got from a colleauge for her birthday. Its not a producer I had heard of before.

Guy de Forez
Brut Traditional
Les Ricays

This small producer is run by the Wenner family, based in the village of Les Ricays. Its a clear crisp wine. Easy nose. Smooth and rounded. Not overly champagne feel. OK. 7/10.

It was an expertimental cooking evening as well. I was doing the starter. I had seen a picture of a Maroc tuna and mushroom dish in a magazine in France so I tried to make something similar.
I made a stock first and then fried lightly some mixed chopped mushrooms and a good helping of Moroccan spices. When just cooked through I added the stock and more herbs. I let this simmer to thicked the sauce. I then fried the tuna quickly so still red in centre and served with mushrooms and sauce. Very good and one try again.

For the main course Nancy made pock with a marmalade sauce on mash potato. The sauce was very good being a comination of beef stock, balsamic vinegar, marmalade and sugar. It worked very well and was not a sweet as I had thought. The bitterness of the marmalad woked well with the balsamic.

This was accompanied with a Rioja.

Ramon Bilbao
Gran Reserva 1998
Rioja

I brought this bottle back from a recent trip to Spain. Ramon Bilbao is a good producer and has a very good website http://www.bodegasramonbilbao.es/. It was formed in 1924 and was taken over by Diego Zamora, a large Spanish drinks group in 1990's. To be labelled Gran Reserva it has had to aged for a considerable time and this wine has seem 30 months in american oak and a further 36 months in bottle befor ebeing released. It a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Granciano and 5% Garnacha. Deep red brown colour. Lovery ripe and creamy nose with hints of vanilla. Smooth, with coffee. Old leather hints. Excellent. 8.5/10

And for dessert Nancy made chocolate mousse. And to finish with this was accompanied with a Tokaji dessert wine.

Chateau Henye

Tokaji 2000

Aszu 3 Puttonyos

Tokaji is one of the great sweet wines of the world. From the north east tip of Hungary it used to rival Sarturnes but the communist years hit the industry hard but its now firmly making a comeback. The aszu is a indication of sweetness and residual sugar and ranges from 3 to 6. This is a 3 and is a bottom level of sweetness. Light more aperitif sytle. Some light burnt orange and honey. Easy to drink. OK. 7.5/10.

2 Classy wines

2007-09-15T15:51:00.000+01:00

These are a couple of wines from the last few weeks.

Groot Constantia
Shiraz
2000
Constania, South Africa

This 100% Shiraz is from the winery based in the building of SA oldest winery, and one of its biggest tourist attractions near to Cape Town. The winery dates back to 1695 where it was founded by the cape governor. The winery reachd it pinnicle in the 19th century where under the Cloete family its sweet Grand Contance white wine was famous throughout the top tables of the world. Diease pretty much wiped the winery out and it has passed through quite a few hands. The last 20 years is seems to have stablised. Wines are now made by Boela Gerber.

This is a deep red Shiraz but alot of styling is a nod to the classic Rhone Syrah. Pepper and spice work very well. The red fruits is quite sweet and lush. Good combination of new and old world. Very good. 8/10.

Valdudon
Cosecha 2004
Ribera del Duero

This red is from one of the top wine areas in Spain. It can produce some of the most expensive and best of that countries wines. This is made from 100% Tempranillo. Delecate ruby red colour. Powerfully earthy farm yard nose with a goo dollop of spice. This earthiness is also there on taste. Black red fruits, blackcurrent. Good. 7.5/10.

Corbieres Tasting Notes

2007-09-15T14:17:00.000+01:00

Over the last few months whilst being down in Perpignan I have been focusing on some of the local appellations. these notes are from Corbieres (see my earlier introduction blog) whcih is the next appellation eastwards from Roussillon, where I am staying. On the whole its a great region full of very good, accessable wine offering fantastic value for money.

Tasting notes

Chateau des Crozes
2003

Dark cherry red. Pepper and spice straightaway in the pungent nose. This is a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. It has some tannic structure, and could develop for a few years more. A good example of the great value for money to be found in this region. 8/10.

Chateau La Voulte-Gasparets
Cuvee Reserve
2003

This is from one of the traditional producers in the region based close to its heart at Boutenac. This is one up from its basic Corbieres ac. It is a blend of old vine (20 to 45years) Carignan (50%), Grenache (25), Mourvedre (15) and Syrah (10). Lighter more opaque cherry red than some examples. Full of cherries with hints of leather and pepper. Good level of tannins. Well made wine and perfectly suited as a partner for red meat. Excellent value. Corbieres definitely out shine Roussillon in the sub 10€ range. 8/10. 7.45€ (Laclerc)

Domaine de Parazol
2004
Padern Cooperative

Stylish modern bottle so often the case with the modern ‘new world’ cooperatives within the hills. Dark cherry purple. Stewed cherry nose. Slight bitter start but then pepper and cherries kick in. The tannins are there at start but then drop off making it an easy wine to drink but with an under lying harshness. OK. 7.5/10.

Domaine Sainte Paule
2003
Gerard Bertrand

GB is a major producer in the Languedoc and his Chat de Hospitalit brand is available in most supermarkets. This is from another winery which seems to be named after his grandmother. Dark black red. Nose full of ripe cherry. Cherry, cedar, soft fruits. Very easy drinking. No tannins and is for consumption straight away. From Saint-Andre-De-Roguelongue in the Fontfriode area of Corbieres. Good fruity forward wine and very good value as picked up from the supermarket around the corner for 4.20€. 8/10.

Domaine de la Perriere
Corbieres
2006

This is produced by the Mont Tauch cooperative and is from vineyard in the narrow valleys around the village of Durban high up in the Corbieres hills. Made from old hand picked Carignan and Grenache. Dark smooth wine. Ripe black fruit with a good structure well suited to red meat. Excellent value (£3.49 from Waitrose) 8/10.

Chateau de Fresquet
Corbieres
2004
Moussan

From the coastal Sigean area. Dark thick blood red. Leathery with touch of smoked ham and cassis on nose. Cassis, dark, prunes, and spicy. Interesting complexity. Tannins at the finish. Long spicy glow. Very good. And excellent value… (3.89€ from Carrefour). 8/10

Serras Mazard
Corbieres
2004
Talairen

This is from the Cellar Sainte Damien in the central Saint Victor region. The cellar is owned by Jean-Pierre Serras Mazard and is the largest in the region with 60ha. The blend is made up of Carignan 30%, Grenache 40% and Syrah 30%, and has been matured in oak for 6 months. Brooding deep dark red gives up a strong cherry nose. This is mixed with a plethora of herbs, spicy and eucalyptus. These flavours come through on tasting but entwined by an ample structure with a good tannic grip. Very good wine and excellent value at 5€ from Carrefour. 8.5/10.

Grussius
Cave du Grussian
2002

Jump up in price with this wine as retails locally at 16€. Dark deep red. Slightly green on nose, but good underlay of herbs and black fruit. Suggests still a bit young and needs more time. Burnt cherry in mouth. Good structure and a light tannic base. Smooth. Good but should develop better. 8/10. 16€ Carrefour.

Domaine des 2 Anes
Premiers Pas
2004

The first thing you notice is the label with the 2 very cute donkeys on the front (Anes = donkey in French). I had seem this winery being very highly recommended in UK wine magazines and when I drove past, it’s between Narbonne and Perpignan, I could resist picking up a bottle. I will have to go back for a proper winery visit. This is a blend of Carignan and Grenache and is the entry level wine. Deep but bright cherry colour. Full of fruit but with touch of leather. Smooth and rounded. Great balance of flavours, with both red and black fruits. Touch of mint and then pepper and other spices. Some tannins at the end but subtle. Excellent wine and ready to drink now. 9/10. 6.50€

Castelmaure
Cuvee de Toto 2006

This was recommended by a wine shop in Perpignan. Another good quality wine from this first class coop. It’s a blend (to be confirmed). Dark heady appearance. Plumy strawberry creamy nose. Plums, chalky, vanilla. Oak noticeable but in balance. Some tannin at finish to suggest body. Good long finish. Young just released but could develop. VG and great value. 6€.

Castlemaure
Pompadour 2005

Not overly keen on the garish label but the bright colours are from the coat of arms of the original comte for the village. Cherry red, medium thickness. Full of bitter cherry. Chalky start. Harsh and almost medicinal feel. It’s a blend of Carignan and Syrah, and then topped up with 30% Grenache and has seen 6month in oak. Ok but nothing special. 7/10.

Castelmaure
Grande Cuvée
2004

The ride to the cooperative winery is fantastic. Up on the Corbieres hills the twisty roads and the tiny vineyards in the tight valleys abound. Then you reach the village and through the narrow streets you reach the winery. The harlequin colours of the count that once ruled here, and now adopted by the winery, lead the way. The grande cuvee is the one of the large range, and unlike the others it has a traditional old style label. It’s a blend 20 yo Grenache (45%) and Syrah (45%), and toped up with 40yo Carignan. Sweet nose. Red fruits, raspberry. Tannins abound, and obviously still young. Good structure. Long finish. This is built to be a food wine and would be very good at that. Good complex of tastes. 8.5/10.

Chateau de Vaugelas
Le Prieuré
2005

This winery is based in the village of Camplong D’Aude in the subzone of Lagrasse. Owned by the Bonfils family going back 5 generations. Typical blend composed of Syrah 30%, Grenache 30%, old vine Carignan 30% and Mourvedre. Cherry and black fruit. Creamy and it has seen some maturing in oak barrels. Rounded and smooth. Some tannins but structure is vg. Herb and spice. Steep up in quality but still great value. 8.5/10. 8€.

Mont Tauch
Corbieres
2006

This was tasted in the last Decanter French wine encounter. This is a blend of Carignan and Grenache. Similarly easy drinking but with enough truth to its identity. Great value. £4.99 Nearly everywhere .7.5/10.

Ancien Comte
Corbieres Blanc
2006

Yes 95% of Corbieres is red but there is also a white appellation. This produce is up in the hills at Tuchan (I think it is part of Mount Tauch). Crisp clear colour. Easy drinking style. Light oaking. Creamy touch of bubblegum. Nice quaffing summer white. 7/10.

Abbaye Fontfriode
Rouge
Corbieres
2006

This is the basic wine of the abbey based winery. Grenache and Syrah. OK basic wine. Good smooth introduction with cherry flavours. Only just released, 4 weeks, and still needed settling down time but looking good. 7.5/10.

Abbaye Fontfroide
Deo gratais
Corbieres
2004

This is the top of the winery range. Seen oak barrels for 12months it’s a modern styled wine. Closed nose (maybe needs breathing time). Taste is spicy and peppery. Good smooth wine. The taste profile grows as consumed which is always a good sign. Built to develop over next 3-4 years. VG. 8.5/10.

Abbaye Fontfriode
Laudamus
Corbieres
2005

This wine is the most traditional of the range and adds Carignan to the blend. Adds some earth rusticness to the blend but not too much. Still smooth and easily drinkable but with an interesting farmyard whiff. Tannins and full of spicy. Harshness is still there and it would benefit to be drunk with food. 8/10.

Domaine De L’Hospitalet
From winery visit (see blog)
Corbieres
Domaine de Villemajou 2004

This wine is from vineyards in the Fontfriode regions of Corbieres. This is a blend of \syrah, Grenache and Carignan. Jump up in quality with the Carignan giving earthy boost. A spicy herby nose. Long finish. Some tannic structure to suggest both body and legs. Spicy pepper finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Ciglasus
2003
VdP D’Oc

Consigned to the ’lower’ general appellation as its made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both banned from the Corbieres appellation where the grapes are grown. Its one of the anomalies of Languedoc in general in that many of the top wines have to use the basic label. These are all from biodynamic vineyards. Black fruit, cassis and cherry. Some tannins and a creamy finish as it has seen some oak maturing. Long finish and dry. Very good and will develop for a number of years yet. 8.5/10.

This was tasted separately but also from Gerard Bertrand.

Domaine Sainte Paule
2003
Gerard Bertrand

GB is a major producer in the Languedoc and his Chat de Hospitalet brand is available in most supermarkets. This is from another winery which seems to be named after his grandmother. Dark black red. Nose full of ripe cherry. Cherry, cedar, soft fruits. Very easy drinking. No tannins and is for consumption straight away. From Saint-Andre-De-Roguelongue in the Fontfroide area of Corbieres. Good fruity forward wine and very good value as picked up from the supermarket around the corner for 4.20€. 8/10.

Chateau Les Ollieux
La Voliere
2005
This winery is located centrally in the Boutenac sub region. Within the same family for over 150 years it is now in the hands of Jacqueline Bories. A traditional blend it is smooth with lashing of cherry and a creamy finish. Some tannins give it substance and it worked well with red meat. Great value for money at only 3.55€. Good everyday wine. 7.5/10.

Corbieres Introduction

2007-09-15T14:12:00.000+01:00

Corbieres

This is the third largest appellation controlee (ac) in France, and I think, the source of the best value for money wines in the whole country. Progressive cooperatives and forwarding thinking ‘new world’ influenced wineries have really pulled the region forward in the last 10-15 years. Add to that some old money being invested from established names from more classic French regions, and it’s a real melting pot of ideas and personalities. The wine at lower price levels I open, accessible, fruity but with a well structured backbone. At the top levels the wines can be truly superb.

However, forget an idea that it’s a single homogenous region that produces similar wine all over. Officially it’s split into 11 terriors (see map) but in general terms I think the area can be split into 3 divisions of influence.

Plains
Mountains
Sea

The 11 terriors are as follows

1. Montagne d'Alaric
2. St-Victor
3. Fontfriode
4. Queribus
5. Boutenac
6. Termenès
7. Lezignan
8. Lagrasse
9. Sigean
10. Durban
11. Servies

My first zone is along side the Mediterranean and is mainly the subzones of Sigean. Strongly effected by coastal winds and mist and with sandy clay soils and rolling hills. Hot and dry but humid.

Inland from here is a vast rolling plan bordered on all sides my mountains or hills. It very dry here but it has a constant supply of ground water. Long maturity times effect the grapes and varieties like Mourvedre are very well suited. Fontfriode, Boutenac and Lezignan are the most important subzones, but this terrior cover s the bulk of Corbieres.

And the final of my three influences is the Corbieres Hills. Here tiny plots of vineyards squeeze into ever narrowing valleys. It’s a wild natural area dominated by cooperatives making wines from the 100’s of small vignobles. These cooperatives are some of the best in the world, with names like Mount Tauch and Castelmaure commanding high prices for their top of range wines. To me this is the heart of Corbieres, and I love the twisting drive across isolated hills and valleys from village to village. It seems wine at its most natural state; the old haggard Grenache vines have survived the test of time and the ever blowing transmontane wind. The key subzone is Durban.

To compound the size of the region even more is the blurriness of its boundaries, other than to the east and the sea it intertwines with its neighbouring appellations. To the south east in the hills and along the coast is Fitou. Villages here have vineyards of either ac, often the boundaries defy any logic but are the left over of past burocratic divisions. To the coastal north it reaches La Clape and the Coteaux de Languedoc. North is Minervios and south is Roussillon, but as the narrow road twist and turn you can be in Corbieres, out of Corbieres and then back in again within a few 100 metres.

It’s a fantastic region for exploring and getting lost in…

It has a very informative website

www.aoc-corbieres.com

And has a regional headquarters and tourist tasting centre
Le Château - 11200 Boutenac.

Misc French wine

2007-09-12T17:21:00.000+01:00

Andlau Barr
Riesling
2004
Alsace

This everyday drinking white is an easy drinking example of a dry Alsace white. Good body, a noticeable minerality and apple. Good and great value at 3.70€. 7/10.

Roux Pere & Fils
Montmains 1st Cru
Chablis
2005

This was available by the glass as part of a fine wine drive by Mercure hotels. Rich yellow colour. The wine house is most well known for its rich opulent oaked Chardonnay from Burgundy and the influence here is telling. This Chablis has seen a good deal of time in oak barrels and it gives it a vanilla toffee taste. By problem here is its not what Chablis is all about. It should be crisp mineraly and no oak influence. It an good wine but its not a classic chablis. 7/10.

Domaine Vinceny Girardin
Santenay 1st Cru
La Maladiere
2004

This is a classic Burgendy red from one of the better sites in the Cote de Beaune. Its 100% Pinot Noir as all red Burgundy is. Dark red but clear and delicate. Good powerful nose. Earthy with nice wiff of countryside. Smooth dark red fruits. Some tannic structure. Very good. 8.5/10.

Mosel part 1

2007-09-12T17:20:00.000+01:00

For a weekend away we headed down to Mosel in Germany. From were we live in Belgium its only about 2 and a half ours to reac the heart of the classic wine area of Middle Mosel. This is the area roughly between Trittenheim and Erden and incorporates the an almost continuous line of high, and some times great, vineyards that rise steeply from the curving river below.

The hotel that we stayed in was the Weinhaus Moselchilde in Urzig, which is about 15km north of Bernkastel, which is the most important town in the area. It’s a good comfortable and friendly hotel overlooking the river. Its also, importantly, pet friendly and welcomed our large Golden Retriever without a problem.

It has a very good restaurant producing a wide array of local dishes and also produces its own wine from its holding in the local and overlooking famous vineyard the Urziger Wurzgarten. A note on German vineyard names, the tend to be in two parts and the first part is the village nearest to the vineyard with _er at the end. The second part is the actual name of vineyard. Unfortunately it can also be a generic name as well. The worse example of this was the vineyards around the village of Piesport. In the 70’s and 80’s one of the best known terrible sweet wines (a la Liebfraumilch) was from the generic appellation called Piesporter Michelsberg, and generally shortened in the UK to Piesporter. However there are a number of specific vineyards around the village that are a million miles away from the sweet limp styled wine, one of these Piesporter Goldtropfchen make some of the finest wines in Germany.

Moselschilde
Urziger Wurzgarten 2005
Kabinett trocken

As mentioned above the hotel makes its own wine from vineyards high above in the famous vineyard Wurzgarten, which translated into spice garden. This vineyard dominates the outer curve of the Mosel that the village is on and is easily spotted by the Hollywood style sign on in the middle of the it. Here the grey slate mixes with red volcanic rock and produces a markedly different terror from the areas around. The name is not from the recently planted garden on the lower slopes but from the herby spicy tang that its wines are renown for.

This has a nose full of melon and mango led tropical fruits. A simple but sufficient structure. Smooth but a little bit short. The tropical hints smooth out the classical petrol of Riesling. Good. 7/10. 10€

We had dinner that that night in the hotel and took the 4 course tasting menu. To start was a pate (ducks liver)) with gelatine and cooked cherries. This was very good and it was perfectly accompanied by the wine suggested by the waitress.

Moselschilde
Erdener Pralat
Spatlese 2003

From a vineyard just further downstream it is a tight sweet wine. Burnt orange nose was very good. Not too sickiliy sweet. Good intensity balanced very well with the pate. Good. 7.5/10.

The rest of the dinner was a very good soup of crab bisque with vegetables and a main course of steak on a bed of mash potato and sweet onion. Again on a recommendation from the waitress we choose an off dry accompaniment.

Rebenhof
Urziger Wurzgarten
Spatlese 2006
Riesling Von alten Reben – harmonise troken.

Again this wine had not come far as its the winery next door. It’s an off dry Riesling. Melon dominates the nose and initial taste. Smooth and flowing wine. Touch of eucalyptus! Worked very well with the crab. Very good. 8/10. 12€.

Lost in the hills

2007-08-27T19:25:00.000+01:00

Sunday saw Nancy, Simba and her Mum & Dad head back to Belgium, after an enjoyable week staying with me in St Cyprian. They left early and I decided to make the most of being up early on a Sunday and go running in the mountains.

Starting from Valmy I headed up to Torre Massana, which is an old tower on top on a smallish mountain. I had done this run before and it takes just over an hour (all uphill). Now to do something different I tried to find a route to the next hill with a tower on ite, Torre Madeloc. After nearly reaching the Spanish border and having at one point have to follow an narrow 80m long tunnel through the hill side (and hitting my head on a rather low bit) I finally emerged at where I was trying to get to.

Trying to get back to where I started was not so successful. Eventually I ended up at Collioure, which is some 5km from where I had started from. Not the best place after I had already been running for 3 and half hours! Not so much lost as knew where I was but I just didn't want to be there!

Chateau Valmy

2007-08-27T19:24:00.000+01:00

Château Valmy
Roussillon
66700 Argeles-sur-Mer

I see this winery all the time as it’s where I base my hill running and it makes an excellent base to hit the tracks up into the mountains. My experiences with the wine have not been so positive and I found the basic red bland. It was with then some trepidation that we went to visit the winery. I was pleasantly surprised.

Les Roses Blanches
Vin de pays des Cotes Catalanes
2005

This was a good note to start on. It’s a white blend from Viognier (unusual in these parts), Marsanne and Grenache Blanc. It has seen some maturing in oak barrels and this compliments well. A delicate wine, some apricot and tropical flavours intermingle with vanilla from the oak. Good long finish. A very elegant white, one of the best I have tasted from Roussillon in this price bracket. Very good. 8.5/10.

Cotes du Roussillon Rouge
2005

This is the basic re and the one that I was not impressed with. Well that hasn’t changed. It’s mainly Syrah with some Grenache and Mourvedre. Still found it bland and typical of the often poor sub 10€ red from the region. 6/10.

Le Premier De Valmy
Cotes du Roussillon
2004

A big jump up in quality (and price). Produced from the estates best grapes and it’s a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache. Grown on a granite terrior and harvested by hand. It then sees 12 months in oak barrels. Deep black red. Good fruit nose with spicy peppery hints. Oak complements the structure well. Very good. 8/10.

L’Or de Valmy
Muscat de Rivesaltes
2004

This sweet aperitif is produced from the early harvesting Muscat a Petits Grains. This style makes a very pleasant lightly sweet aperitif but this has more body than most Muscat I have tasted. More substance and a bigger sweeter taste. Burnt orange marmalade. More a dessert wine than an aperitif. Good. 7.5/10.

Valmya
Rivesaltes Grenat 2004

This is made from Grenache Noir parcels in front of the chateau. It seems to have been produced for a long time and is what the winery was originally most well known for. It’s a sweet port style fortified wine. It is aged for two years before final production. It’s a light brown red amber colour. Red fruits but not overly sweet. Nuts. Prunes. Good complex range of flavours. To be consumed with fois gras, blue cheese or dark chocolate. Yum. Good. 8/10.

Some very good wine

2007-08-27T19:23:00.000+01:00

Domaine Lafage
Cote Grenache Noir
VdP Cotes Catalenes 2004

This is from a winery I drive past every day just south of Perpignan. I picked up the bottle from the winery on an off chance to try out. Unusually it’s a 100% Grenache but it is taken from a selection of old vines from throughout the region. Lafage are also unusual in that that have two big areas of vineyards in the coastal plan and also in the mountains. Unfiltered. Powerful nose full of pepper, black fruit, and earthiness. The structure and power stay with the wine. Not too tannic though, big flavours but well made. Very good. 8.5/10.

Chateau St. Didier-Parnac
Cahors2002
Rical

This is made by the Rigal family, who have been producing in the SW area of France for over 300 years. Cahors was known for its black harsh wine based on Malbec, the grape which is now better known as Argentina’s signature grape. In addition to Malbec this has 15% Merlot and 5% Tannet. The has been a quite revolution in Cahors over the last 10 years with more modern techniques opening the wine up to a more international taste. This is dark but very drinkable. There are some tannins but it doesn’t take over the wine. Black cherry. It’s seen some oak which has softened it. Good. 7/10.

Rebmann
Riesling Cuvee Prestige
2004
Alsace

This Riesling comes from the Kaysersberg valley in Alsace. It is produced by Marcel and Frederic Blanck, one of the famous Alsace families. Good body. Light gold colour. Big body and substance makes it seem very much Grand Cru in style. Dry, stony and loads of minerality. Very good. 8/10.

Domaine De L'Hospitalet

2007-08-27T19:21:00.000+01:00

Domaine De L’Hospitalet
Route de Narbonne-Plage
11104 Narbonne

This winery is the headquarters of the ever growing Gerard Bertrand empire. It’s situated right in the middle of the La Clape massif, just below a sinister looking military radar station perched atop the plateau and some 5 km from the sea. The set up of the vineyard and winery is very consumer friendly, remarkable in this part of France. It's more akin to the wine tourism of Napa, or somewhere like Banfi.

The tasting room/wine showroom was spacious and all the vast array of wine that Bertrand produces very displayed. There was also a vintages display with wine going back to early 1980’savailable to buy.

We were greeted by a slightly bored looking assistant, who started to offer us the standard tourist wares. It is only a few miles from the beach and I imagine on rainy/ cloudy days they get swamped by car loads of them. Once he realised that we knew and appreciated something about wine he was much more forthcoming.

VdP D’Oc 2003
Rouge

This is basic red and is a blend of syrah/ merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Some damsel fruit and a dose of earthiness. Tannins. Not great structure. Weak body. Basic wine as it tries to be. Not good. 6/10.

Coteaux des Languedoc La Clape
Art de Vivre
2005

This is a step up in quality and is from the local appellation. This is a blend of Grenache/ Syrah/ Mourverdre. It's a young wine and has only been available for a couple of months, and still needs some more bottle time. Closed nose. Some fruit coming through. Tannins are quite tight and dry finish. Needs time but has some promise. OK 7/10.

Corbieres
Domaine de Villemajou 2004

This wine is from vineyards in the Fontfriode regions of Corbieres. This is a blend of \syrah, Grenache and Carignan. Jump up in quality with the Carignan giving earthy boost. A spicy herby nose. Long finish. Some tannic structure to suggest both body and legs. Spicy pepper finish. Very good. 8.5/10.

Minervios La- Livinere
Château Laville Bertrou
2004

Big pushy nose. Red fruit with buckets distinctive sweet cherries. Carries through to taste. Medicinal. Sweeter feel to wine. Similar to Aussie ‘blockbuster’. Bit to sweet for me but a good wine none the less. 7.5/10.

Ciglasus
2003
VdP D’Oc

Consigned to the ’lower’ general appellation as its made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both banned from the Corbieres appellation where the grapes are grown. Its one of the anomalies of Languedoc in general in that many of the top wines have to use the basic label. These are all from biodynamic vineyards. Black fruit, cassis and cherry. Some tannins and a creamy finish as it has seen some oak maturing. Long finish and dry. Very good and will develop for a number of years yet. 8.5/10.

Tautaval
Homage aux Vignoble
Cote du Roussillon Village

Though no holding in Roussillon, this is made from bought in grapes. It’s a Grenache Syrah blend. Good rounded nose. Distinctive earthy taste. Well structured. Chalk feel. Some hints of oaky vanillin but in balance. Very good. 8/10.

L’Hospitalitas
2004
Coteaux de Languedoc La Clape

This is from a separate parcel of the best grapes and only 6000 bottles produced. The guide rated it as his favourite and it had a price to match (35€). It also had good rating recently and Wine Spectator in US gave it 91%. It's a blend of Syrah and Mouverdre. Sweet fruity nose with layers of red fruits. Open and waves of sweet fruit come through. Very much in line with current wine fashion but no worse for that. Tannic structure and a long elegant finish. Very good.8.5/10.

Good Spanish whites

2007-08-22T15:57:00.000+01:00

Last week I was in Murcia in Spain. This time I actually stayed in the old city itself. It's a beautiful old centre out of the main tourist routes. The cathedral and the surrounding streets are like going back in time.

Wine wise I was with a white win fan so used the time to try some Spanish whites, not local ones but from a couple of the better white regions in Spain.

Basa
Rueda Blanca
2006

The region of Rueda is in the centre of Spain next to the famous red region of Ribera del Duoro and is also nestled along the famous Duoro river that eventually leads to Portugal and the famous Port region. Verdejo is the most famous and popular white grape and it is producing an ever improving range of whites. This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo and Viura blend. Modern styled bottle and set up. Clear cool and crisp. Built to be drunk cold on a hot day. Big meaty body. Full of tropic with surprisingly good dousage of oaky bubble gum! Mango and kiwis. Long refreshing drink Good. 7/10.

Marques de Irun
Rueda Blanca
2006

Another white from Rueda but this time 100% Verdejo. This winery is owned by Emilo Lustao, a top Sherry house that has owned it since 1990. they have modernised but kept the producer small and the emphasis on quality. Again tropical tartiness abounds. New world forwardness. Oak but in balance. Clean and richier with a touch more complexity. Good. 7.5/10.

Lusco
Rias Baixas
Albarino
2005

A different region this time and this is generally thought to be the top white region in Spain. Rias Baixas is in the south of Galica right in the top west of Spain. The main grape is Albarino. Lusco is run by Jose Antonio Lopez, one of the most important winemakers in the region. Tropical fruit open through the nose and carry through. Full spectum of flavours and a dry finish. Big powerful white that can easily deal with most foods. Pineapple, apricot. Oak on nosebut in great balance. VG. 8.5/10.

And a red

Casa del la Ermita
Crianza
2004

I visited this winery last year and this one is local, about 40 km north in Jumilla. This has only recently been released. Cherry deep and dark. Creamy prunes. Big chewy tannins. Good but needs a bit more settling time. 7.5/10.

Wines from Waitrose

2007-08-18T20:14:00.000+01:00

Back in UK this weekend. Spent this morning out on the new mountain bike. After surviving Canigou the next adventure is a couple of duathlons. These are a combination of mountain biking and running. Headed over to Thetford Forest and the mountain bike trails. Good fun especially the black run.

A couple of wines that picked up from Waitrose.

Yalumba
Y Series
Shiraz Viognier 2005
South Australia

The Y series is a good quality varietal range of wines. The Shiraz (Syrah in the old world) is a big spicy wine, and the touch of Viognier (a white grape) is there to smooth it. It is a blend used in the Rhone (Cote Rotie it reachs its best). This opens up full and peppery. It is smooth and any tannins are light. Easy but with body. OK. 7/10. £6.99.

Clos de Nouys
Vouvray 2006
Demi Sec

This is a off dry (which is too say sweetish) wine. This is a 100% Chenin Blanc. Sweet on start. Light honey. Then drys out a bit and although still florial it dries out. Spiciness and long. Ginger! OK but not my favourite style. 6.5/10.

La Motte Sauvignon Blanc

2007-08-13T08:39:00.000+01:00

It was good to have a quieter weekend. Nancy has been away in US all week and we both relished staying local. Sunday we popped down to Geel as there was a big duathlon going on. We got there to see all of the elite race. Very good but being that we both run we were itching to join in. Decided that next year we would take part.

Not too many wine notes from weekend.

La Motte
Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Franschhoek Valley, South Africa

This bottle we brought over from South Africa at the end of our holiday. Sauvignon Blanc is not the most well known of SA white and this one is from grapes from across the Cape. Very clear crisp colour. Nose fragrant and apples come through. Some tropical fruits as well. This tropical flavouring carries through. Quite full and and fruity. Slight tartiness at first. I am not a great fan of new world Sauvignon Blanc and this is not the best example. Not for me. 6.5/10.

I am off to Spain this week, to Murcia so hopefully I can try some of the good local Jumilla and Yecla wines.

Chataeu Montner

2007-08-10T18:02:00.000+01:00

Chateau Montner
Premium
Vignerons de Cotes d’Agly
Cotes du Roussillon Village
2005

A recommendation from a Perpignan wine shop and for once a very good Roussiion wine under 10€. A blend of Syrah (40%), Carignan (40%) and Grenache (20%). Easy relaxed and smooth wine. Work in balance. Full of red fruit, cassis. Red berries. Spicy. Great wine. Fantasitc value as 7€. And its from a cooperative, of which more and more in this part of France are really getting there act together. 9/10.

Am now back in an appartment down in Perpignan after 2 months in a hotel. Hotels sound good but after spend Mon to Fri in one for 9 weeks you go mad. This one is in St Cyprian and is on the coast. And I have Nancy, her Mum and Dad, and Simba (our dog) down in a weeks time.

Championnet de Canigou

2007-08-05T17:21:00.000+01:00

To day was the day. And yes I completed the infamous race in 6hr and 23 secs. A bit disappointed with the time but at least I completed.

I travelled to Vernet, where the race started, last night to pick up my number. And this morning left Perpignan bright and early at 4 10am. Getting to Vernet early meant that I got a good parking space pretty close to the start. 800 hundred runner were taking part and too stop myself going off too quickly I started near the back. In retrospect a mistake as because as soon as the race went off road it was single path all the way which made overtaking very difficult and therefore when the people ahead decided to walk I had to as well.

The course climbed steeply up mile after mile. It was only in the last 4 km that you could see the summit and the best bit of the ascent was the last 500m as it was a hands and feet scramble/ climb up the chimlay to the top. This wa sfun if a little crowded.

By this time the temperature was climbing every upward. While the conditions were perfect for the top runner and a new course record was sent at 3hr and 5min, they finished before the midday sun hit 30 degrees.

The decent was a bit frustrating as was so technical that with my decending technique I had to keep slowing down as was full of rock, lose stone, roots and general uneven ground. I only feel over once but that was more being distracted by some one taking a photo and then slid down the slope on my backside! Only other mishap was crossing a river and slipping off a stone an putting my right leg in water up to my knee. This made for a wet and squlchie shoe for the next 2 miles.

It was only in the last 2 and half km that we hit a reasonably stable track and I could really run and it was wide enough to overtake. Must of overtaken some 20 runners in that time and nearly got under 6 hours.

Maybe next year......

Nearly race time

2007-08-03T14:51:00.000+01:00

Its a been a strange week counting down to Sundays big race.

I had an easy week last week training wise to help freshen up my legs and these weeks been a few short runs and lots of stretching. It really all about keeping fresh, not injurying myself but keeping muscles stretched, and not catching a cold. I go into panic mode when ever I sneeze!

Tonight is about eating early, lots of pasta for the carbohydrates, and a good nights sleep. The sleep 2 nights before a race is more important than that the night before. Tomorrow again will be easy, going for a drive, maybe a bit of site seeing. I am then going to Vernet to pick up my number etc late afternoon.

Another early night and then up at 4am to get to Vernet in plenty of time for the race start at 7am.

Lots of wine notes

2007-07-26T20:58:00.000+01:00

A catch upon some wines tasted over the last few weeks.

Habarske Sklepy
Andre 2003
Morava
Czech Republic

This red wine was brought back from my recent visit to Czech Republic. Not well known for wine but it has a substantial wine producing region in the south called Morava. The colour is a dark but opaque red. Quite distinctive and drinkable. Cherry and pepper are key elements. Little tannic structure. OK. 7/10.

Southern Right
Pinotage 2002
Western Cape
South Africa

Southern Right was the first Pinotage that I ever tasted many years ago in a tasting at Avery’s in Bristol, I nearly choked as was unlike any other red grape I had ever tasted. Thick dark red. Nose is very Pinotage like with hints of stilton cheese. Cedar and blue cheese. Thick big wine built for red meat. Very typical example of the grape. I like it but many will not. 8/10.

The FMC
Forrester Meinlert Chenin
Chenin Blanc 2005
Ken Forrester
Stellenbosch, South Africa

For all of South Africa’s attempts to push its red wine it is often its whites that reach the greater quality and originality, and of these its been Chenin Blanc that has really shone. This wine takes it to new levels and has been produced from hand picked old vines. Deep golden yellow. Nose is full of apricots and hints of honey and melon. Almost condrieu like in the complexity of senses. The tropical flavours stay through tasing with mango and bananas. A slight botyrus effect. This is still young and it should carry on developing for a long while yet. Excellent. 9/10. £16.99 Waitrose.

Vieil-Armand
Grand Cru Ollwiller
Riesling 2000
Soultz-Wuenhein
Alsace

I have raved often enough about Grand Crus from Alsace, but at is best it is the top white wine in the world. This GC is new to me and is from the south of the region. Off dry to start but then the intial tartiness relaxes and a crisper drier wine appears. Apple and pear dominates both the nose and the taste. Big substantial wine as fit the GC status. Long finish. Good. 7.5/10.

Taichat
Cotes du Roussillon Blanc
Vignerons Catalan
2006

Vig Cat are a coop and the biggest producer in the region and get a good exposure back home with the fruity reds, rose and whites. Light almost water like appearance. Crisp cool drink. Ideal for drinking whilst eating sea food over looking a beach in the south of France J. Good everyday value wine. 7/10 (9/10 when by beach!).

Domaine Seguela
Les Candalieres 2005
Cotes du Roussillon Village
Rasigueres, Roussillon

Oh dear and what do you do with a bottle of white that you find in the boot of your car and it must have been there for 3 months. Which would have been enough in rainy England but in hot France and Spain it was pretty much cooked. I was intrigued to see just how well the wine had coped especially as it was a pretty good wine to start. The first taste was pretty tarty. But as it relaxed and I double poured each glass to allow it to breath a bit it good better. It has legs and still a tannic structure. Better than I thought after the abuse I had put it through. No score.

Getting closer

2007-07-26T20:54:00.000+01:00

Only 10 days to the big race. Having an easy week this week. This close I can't get any fitter and its about being fresh on the day. And having a heavy week at work so not much time for running.

Had a colleague at work who has climbed the mountain a few times take me through the course. Very enlightening and a bit scarey.

Surrey Slog

2007-07-15T17:59:00.000+01:00

The lastest training for Canigou saw us (yes dragged Nancy along) heading down to Surray to run the Surrey Slog. This is a cross country hilly half marathon. The application says that its hard going and to expect to run 15% more then normally for a half.

Lucky the rotten weather had cleared as we set of. It was in the hills aroung Peaslake near to Dorking. The hills started from the off. There was a few long hills over a mile long and no flat bits. It took a while to get into the race but from the 6 mile point felt good. Eventually finished in a happy 41st (out of 250ish) in 1hr 48. Nancy came in a bit later in 2hr 5min.

This is my last half before the big race. Three weeks to go....

27 days to go

2007-07-09T12:37:00.000+01:00

Busy week in France both work and training wise.

Wednesday was the now usual evening hill run. Not as far as last week but still a good hour in the steep hills. Thursday was then a sprint session around the Lac de Raho.

Saturday was an unusual event in that we took part in a team relay Marathon in Belgium. We were both running for different Janssen teams, but it was more of a social event (due to people dropping out I was due to run 3 out of the 6 legs). My team started with a slow runner, and I was due to run the 2nd, 3rd and 4th legs, and was firmly in last place when handed over to! And Nancy who was running the 2nd and 3rd legs for her team was 15 minutes ahead.

The training is going well at moment and I managed the 22k in 1hr 33mins, and managed to catch Nancy's team with about 500 metres to go before I handed over to the next person. The rest of the race was close between the two teams and only 3 seconds diference at the end with Nancy's team just pipping it.

As the big race gets closer I have now got the final part sorted for the application. In France to do any competative sport you need to have a doctor certificate and got that done today. Three weeks this Sunday to the big race.

I'm on holiday today in Belgium to do the Tessendelo Classic 10k tonight. It's a big race over here with some 8000 runners and starts at 8pm and there is meant to be 1000's of spectators.

Riesling & Spanish Merlot

2007-07-01T19:16:00.000+01:00

Last night baked a very good sea bream. Dead easy and baking really keeps the flavour in.

It was accompanied by my favourite type of white wine, an Alsace grand cru Riesling.

Maison Zoeller
Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Wolxheim
2001

There are 51 nominated grand cru vineyards in Alsace and the wine from these really can hit the mark. Forget sweetish German rieslings, these can be dry and minerally. This one is from the north part of the region from a vineyard more famous for wines from Deiss. This is a deep yellow and has a surberbly typical nose of petrol. Deep thick texture. Minerality and apple. Hints of petrol comes through as well. Very good wine. 8.5/10.

Torres
Atrium 2005
DO Penedes
Spain

This is 100% Merlot from the famous Catalan wine producer. Open deep red colour with good red fruit and cherry nose. Quite jammy with full taste. Vanilla hints as the oak prep comes in. Long finish with a good light tannin finish. Good wine. 8/10.

More wine from Canet

2007-06-30T16:27:00.001+01:00

With all the training recently the wine consumption has decreased. Have been focusing more on very local wine to Canet where I'm staying. Not the best wine area in Roussillon as a bit too close to the sea. I have added posts about a couple of wines and here is another.

Chateau de Rey
Canet du Roussillon
Sisquo 2005

This chateau is just northwest of Canet, the other side of the lagoon, so a bit further in land than some that have tasted. It is the property of Phillippe & Cathy Sisqueille, who took over the familly vineyards in 1996. Its a blend of Syrah 55%, Carignan 25% and Grenache noir 20%. Its a light garnet red. Nose is powerful burnt cherry. The cherry is still there on tasting. Harsh tough chewy wine, but not very well structured. OK but not more. 7/10.

Canigou getting closer

2007-06-30T16:05:00.000+01:00

Friday saw me enter the big race up Canigou. Entering wasn't the most straight forward thing to do as it was either by post (no web entry) with payment by cheque (French bank only) or in person at the tourist centre in Vernet-la-Bain, a spa town at the foot of the mountain and the starting point. I had no option but to drive out to Vernet and provisionally entered, I have paid no just need to send in a medical certificate (French law). It also allowed me to recon the place and also utilise the time to have a training run.

I ran the first 6km and then returned to the car. It was also up the steepest hill on the course. Basically the race is 17km up hill to the top of the mountain (2800m high) and then back again. The hill was a bit of a killer as I ran just past Col de Jou. Spectacular scenary and very hard work. Its just as well the training is going well. Am up to 60km+ a week.

My hill training is centred on the hills/mountains behind Chateau Valmy. Its got lots of different routes up into the Pyranees. Last Wednesday I pushed the run to 2 hours which was 1 hr 10mins uphill to the top of mountain and the Tour de la Massene, an old fortified tower on top. Then a different route down, past an old monerstry.

Music Festival

2007-06-22T19:15:00.000+01:00

Yesterday was the night of the music festival around France. Perpignan was packed with revellers and the streets and squares were full of bands playing the whole range of music from rock to jazz to country to trance. All of mixed abilities! The atmosphere was very relaxed. Thousands of people enjoying themselves without any hint of trouble.

The only downside was that I was staying in a hotel in the centre of Perpignan and had a stage with a very noisy rock band playing till 3am in the morning right under my hotel window!

Canet wines

2007-06-22T19:08:00.000+01:00

Some local Roussillon wines tasted over the last couple of week...

Chateau Esparrou
Merlot
2005
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

Had this in a restaurant in Canet about 500m from the Château. The Merlot grapes are from vineyards on the gravel beds of the old Tet river flood plain. Bright red with a cherry hit on the nose. Light flavours with little structure. Nothing special. 6.5/10.

Chateau Valmy
Cotes du Roussillon
2004

This is another local wine to where staying near Perpignan. Is based around a striking white chateau nestling at the foot of the Pyranees. Its also where I tend to park up when going hill running. So when I saw the wine at Casa Sansa in Perpignan I tried it. First thing to comment on was the label. Its terrible. It a mangled modern design which does absolutely nothing to make the wine more catching. The wine is a Syrah based blend with Grenache and Mourvedre. The nose promises well with red fruit especial cherry. The opening tastes again open well with again cherry, then pepper and finishing with a tannic cough medicine. However it soon died and became oddly uninteresting. OK. 7/10.

Domaine des Hospices de Canet
Grande Reserve
Cote du Roussillon 2004

Grenache based blend. Little tannins and quite light weight as is often the case from vineyards this close to the Mediterranean. The label claims ability to age but I thing there little structure to develop. Nothing exciting. 6/10.

Weekend

2007-06-17T08:46:00.000+01:00

Over in Ramsey this weekend which allows a bit of catching up with the house etc. Had an pleasent evening in cooking and drinking wine with just the two of us. The wine was from Waitrose.

O'Leary Walker
Polish Hill River Riesling 2006
South Australia

This was an ideal summer wine. Tropical off dry with a hint of honey. Lemon and lime also comes through. Good example of new world Riesling. £6.99.

Domaine de la Perriere
Corbieres 2006

This is very good value wine. Dark with layers of black fruit. Some tannins are there to give it a chewiness that would work well with red meat. Corbieres is the first wine region that you come across when you move from Roussillon to Languedoc and I am currently writing a fuller write up on the area.

Running

2007-06-17T08:42:00.000+01:00

The count down is now on until I have the big race in France on the 5th August. I have now upped the milage to around 40 miles a week. Being down near the Pyranies in France gives good access to do the hill work needed.

The run is called Championnat du Canigou and there is a link below (its in French but you can get the idea).

www.courseducanigou.com

Pictures from Botswana

2007-06-17T08:32:00.000+01:00

Lots more to come but below is a few pictures that I took in Africa.

Back again

2007-06-16T14:23:00.000+01:00

Sorry that not had any blogs for a while but been a combination of being away on hols (Botswana), being busy at work and a few technical problems not allowing access in France. All well and busy training for my run in August.

Lots of photos from holidays to come as well as a bit of wine stuff.

Rock of Ages

2007-05-07T19:20:00.000+01:00

I haven't just found religon but this was the name of the run that I did on Sunday in the Mendips. It was only 12km but all off road and some very nasty hills. It was very rocky and uneven as well. Icouldn't feel my legs at the top of one of the hills.

The only good bit was the lasy 2-3 km were down hilland I overtook 5 runners on the way down. Finished a disappointing 1hr 14

Prague

2007-05-07T18:46:00.000+01:00

I was in Prague last week for a couple of days for work. I have only been there once before, 17 years ago when inter-railing around Europe. Then it was magnificant. Its old original facards all intact under the untouch grim of 40 years of Soviet rule. Now the grime has been removed and it is almost prestine. Its like working back in time. I didn't have too much time on Thursday night. Just enough to get a tube into the centre for food and a quick look around. I had dinner right on the old square, with its fantastic clock in a restaurant called U Prince. It looked a but touristy but the food was very good and reasonably priced too. I had a dish of roast pork with pickled red cabbage. Very good.

Earlier in the day I was treated by the development chef of the factory I was visiting to a traditional Czech dish called Svickova. This was similar to a goulash with beef in a cream sauce with paprika and cummin, the difference was the saurekraut mixed with it which created a combination of sweet and sour which worked very well. Very good.

And whilst at the airport I managed to try out a glass of Czech wine. Now I know its not well known and too be honest Prague is all about tasting the famous beer but I gave it ago.

Haban Cellars
Gruner Veltiner 2004

I couldn't find out too much details from the bottle. Gruvy is a grape more well known in Austria but as we aren't too fat away I shouldn't be too radial a selection. It was ok. Easy to drink and light, at only 11%. Some apple. Nothing to write home about. 6.5/10.

Roussillon wine tasting

2007-04-29T20:47:00.000+01:00

One big difference between England and France is that back home the wine tasting are always organised (except the big national tastings in London) during the week, but in Perpignan they all seem to be at the weekend! So at last Coté Terroir, just around corner and a series of tastings ahead.

This was the second of a series dedicated to the terroir of Roussillon. This one was on the schist (shale) terroir.

The schist comes through in bands of tightly knit and layered maritime residue. Think of slate like substance all horizontal in tight layers. It cracked and stony texture is very well suited tp vine roots which have to me made to work for water. To perfect the condition this should be some 15 to 20 ft below the surface.

The schist environment take in many of the top terroirs including Maury and Banyus, it also streches across to Corbieres in north and then across to Spain in the south.

And so to the wine….

Domaine Forca Real
Cote du Roussillon Village 2002

The first bottle was corked, this isn’t always a bad thing as it is good to get an expert to describe what is exactly wrong. This smelled and tasted like wet cardboard!!
And the next bottle was fine. A dark deep red. Nose full of cassis and cherry. Deep. In tasting slight closed but there is a thin layer of tannin. A few spices and a short finish. Not as good as the nose promised. Ok. 7/10.

In Fine
Cave de L’Abbe Rous
Collioure Rouge 2004

Lighter reddier colour. Again a big dusty butter nose. This carries through in tasting. Very distinctive but for wrong reasons. No one crowd about this wine. Poor. 6/10.

Ego
Mas de Lavail
Vdp Cote Catalanne 2003

Darker but still an opaque quality, seemed more brownie. Lovely nose fullof spicies, pepper, herb (these really show up). These carry through to tasting and joined by an undercurrent of licqorise. This has tannins to give a framework. Dry finish. Complex and long. Very good. 8.5/10. 13€.

Now for the vin doux naturel’s (VDN) these are the sweeter (fortified) wines that Roussillon has traditionally been most famous for.

Domaine St Roch
Maury
VDN Blanc 2004

This winery is located next door to Mas Amiel (see earlier blog) just at the beginning of the Maury appellation. It’s an equal blend of Macabeu and Grenache gris. Crisp light gold and starts with a closed nosed, which was a bit surprising but then as the aor works its way inside it begins to open up. Touch of marzipan and pear. Has a biscuity sweetness and a bitter finish. The flavours develop very well. Good. 8/10. 14€.

Cave de L’Abbe Rous
Banyuls Grand Cru
Reynal 1995

This is a big oxygenised wine made from 80% Grenache, 10% Carignan and the rest what ever they could muster. The local in the tasting evening (that everyone else) raved about this wine and chocolate, and indeed dark chocolate was handed out. I’m not the greatest fan a dark chocolate but could manage the 60% stuff but the 99% was far to bitter for me. Personally I thing dark chocolate killed the wine but I seemed to be in a minority of one. Back to the wine. Rd light brown/amber colour. Typical rancid (this is good) and dry. Nuts. Crème Catalan. Raisins and sultanas. Very good. 8.5/10 but weighs in at 30.50€.

And a bonus tasting.

Le Mat Blanc
Mat Blanc
Banyuls

A new wine and no more details. Big red fruits nose. Raspberry. Easy open wine. Bright and fruity and aimed at the female drinker. Again they tried it with chocolate and forget it. Good easy wine.7/10.

Copenhagen

2007-04-28T16:41:00.000+01:00

Back from my first visit to Copenhagen. Arrived late on a Wednesday and left Friday evening, so rushed but managed a bit of look around.

After work on Thursady it was still early enough to go running and ran from the hotel on outskirts into the centre. Not the best run in world as seemed to be following a main road all the way in. Made it to Tivoli Garden and then back again.

The evening we were entertained by our Danish hosts. First stop was a local micro brewery just of the town square called Hereford. The beer was very good, a mixture between a larger and a bitter, a bit like witte biere in Belgium. Then it was of to Tivoli for dinner. Now the idea of having dinner in a restaurant in the centre of a amusement part would normally fill me with horrior but this was very different. Tivoli is a very old amusement part in the centre of Copenhagen. It has all the usually things, rollercosters, rides, win a gold fish stuff but is also more of an general entertainment hub. And so we arrived at the worst named restaurant I have ever been to but the food and wine was very good.

Cafe Ketchup
Tivoli Garden
Copenhagen

Reservation were definitely required here but the atmosphere and sytle was relaxed fitting it location. The food was very much fusion, and was a blend of Danish and Far Eastern. For starter it was the salmon (Gravelaux) which was superb. Simple but the freshness relly held the dish together and it was acccompanied by a bottle of champagne.
The main I chose Danish Veal and again it was very good. The real star of the evening was the wine with the main. I didn't chose it but couldn't fault Klaus choice.

Guigal
Gigondas 2001

This is a big meaty Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Full of spice and pepper. The nose was great and full of delightful layers. This carried through and the finish worked very well. My colleagues all raved about the wine as well. Very good. 8.5/10.

To finish the night we all had a ride on one of those rides that take you 150 metres in the air and spin you around. Very good.

I liked Copenhagen.

Barcelona airport

2007-04-25T17:23:00.000+01:00

Quick note from Barcelona airport. Waiting for a delayed flight to Denmark. There for rest of week for work. Somewhere I have never been before and apparently on Thursday evening I'm being taken out to the Trivoli gardens.

In training again

2007-04-23T07:23:00.000+01:00

After a few months of taking it easy its now time to start ramping up the running again. I am enetering in a famous race in Roussillon called the Championate de Canigou in August which is basic up and down a mountain. It a very big mountain and should take around 5 hours! So back training in earnest 5 days a week. Including making it out both Saturday and Sunday. Sunday around Grafton Water which is alway very enjoyable.

Halibut

2007-04-23T07:20:00.000+01:00

Saturday I attacked the latest issue of Olive for ideas to cook in the evening. After a bit of debating it was the Halibut with Cape Beuree sauce on crushed potatos. Very easy and quick (30 mins). The sauce was the only ‘tricky’ bit. Chopped shallots into pan with 3tbs wine wine vinegar and 1 of white wine. Reduced down to a third and then the butter added gradually and whisked in. When at desired texture then add the capers. Very good and works well with the fish and the potatoes.

Finca Las Higueras
Jac Fran Lurton
Pinot Gris
Argentina 2006
Mendoza

I can’t remember trying a Pinot Gris from Argentina before and was slightly worried that it may steer to much towards the Pinot Grigio. But no the nose had a unmistakable Alsace pinot direction. Quite a meaty white wine. The new world effect is shown by an boost of tropical flavours and fruit. Too of sweetness to this dry wine. Good wine that worked the flavours of the fish and sauce well. Currently one of wines of month at Waitrose. 8/10. £5.99 Waitrose.

Peter Lehmann
Clancy’s 2004
Barossa
Australia

Entry level red from this very good winery. It’s a blend of Shiraz, cabernet and Merlot. Big dark brown red. Big nose full of blackberry and spicy. This carries through to tasting and bramble jammy and pepper carry the flavours. Not much tannins. Forward fruity Aussie red. Little subtly here. OK. 7.5/10 Waitrose (currently on promo £5 from £7)

Spanish wine

2007-04-17T19:45:00.000+01:00

Nothing to special and just catching up with a few wines notes from my last trip to Spain.

Genus 2005
BSI
Jumilla doc

This is a from the Jumilla region in the north of Murcia. For more on the region I had a visit to a different winery a few months back. Trendy label and international market is definately the target audience here. Its a blend of Monastrell and Syrah. It pours to a bright deep cherry. Nose is full of red fruit and pepper. Good. 7.5/10.

Ramon Roquerta
Crianza 2002
Catalunya

This is a region I have not tasted before. Its a catch all denomination to cover wines from all over Catalunya that were not previously inside a DOC. Its a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Easy fruity wine. Perfect for everyday drinking with dinner. Has a touch of tannins and has seen some oak which comes through. Ok. 7/10.

Queribus

2007-04-16T18:58:00.000+01:00

The next destination after our winery visit was the ancient Cathar castle of Queribus.

There is no trouble spotting the castle as it stands out perch a on top of a savage cliff lines mountain. From there is dominates the valley below. This was once the border with Aragon and this castle was in the firing line. And for centuries it was untouchable. It even was the last refuge of the Cathars in the crusade against them. This was the last main stroghold left to them before they slipped away towards Spain before the ongoing French army could lay siege.

As you can see the view commands the whole valley.

The castle is in remarkably good condition, reflecting its impregniable position. It is known as one of the 5 sons of Carcassonne, that guarded the city from attacking Aragon armies. Once you are a top of the castle you are left, refreshingly, to you own devises to explore the knocks and crannies. The central chamber with its virtually intact pillar is amazing. And then the lower chambers are cut out if the rock of the mountain itself.

And a couple more photos to finish. I have been told off for too many boring photos and not enough with Nancy in so....

This one is Nancy before I rescued her...

And then we headed back down to Maury for lunch.

I had been recommended a good place for lunch and so it turned out.

Le Pichenouille

Maury (opposite the large Coop wine producer)

This is both a restaurant and a cave to distribute the local winemakers fares. We took the lunch menu which canges every day and was perfect and great value at €14 each.

And too accompany...

Chateau Saint Roch

Cuvee La Bastide

VdP des Cites Catalanes blanc

Perfect chilled white on a warm spring day. This is a blend of Grenach gris (80%) and Macabeu. Its been matured in oak and this is the first thing you notice with vanilla and creme sundai coming through. Its a big food friendly wine and these flavour worked welland part of a more complex rainbow as tropical fruitslike banana and mango started to developed. Good food white. 8/10.

Mas Amiel

2007-04-11T21:35:00.000+01:00

Mas Amiel
66460 Maury
Roussillon

Saturday morning saw us up bright and early to met a 10am appointment at this top Maury winery.

After driving though the Tauraval valley we turned down the narrow road, surrounded on all sides by vines. Mas Amiel is easy to spot as there as massive MA sign which you can spot from miles away.

The story of how Mas Amiel came to be read like a romantic book. It’s 1816 and the bishop of Perpignan is playing card against an engineer by the name of Raymond-Etienne Amiel. Short of cash the confident cleric put one of hos numerous properties on the table. He loses and the property becomes Amiel’s.

To start with the property flourished and rode the Phylloxera crisis very well. The house was expanded and more land was put to vine. However the good times didn’t last and an economic crisis in 1907 forced the sale of the property. It was acquired by Charles Dupuy and passed down to his son. In 1997 it was sold to Olivier Decelle, the current owner. He has since developed the winery into a more international outlook and it is now the most well known Maury wine around the world. It has also in recent year adopted the biodyanamic approach, including using the famous horn dug as fertiliser!

La Plasir
VdP Cotes Catalanes 2005

This is 100% grenache noir. The nose is full of burn toast and has a dusty roundness to it. Dark fruits come through. Light tannic base gives it a dose of structure. Good straight forward wine.7.5/10.

Notre Terre
Cotes du Roussillon Village 2005

This is a blend Grenache (50%), Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan and has seen 10 months in oak barrels. The oak comes through a touch too much at present and the nose is creamy. Dry on the taste but then develops an earthy quality to finish. Tannin are higher and has a decent grip around the teeth. More complex and a step up. 8/10.

Cararades
Cotes du Roussillon Village 2005

Again a blend this time from 40% Grenache and the equal amounts of Syrah and Carignan. Dark black but bright. Soft sweet porty nose as the concentrated fruit comes out. Bubblegum. Big level of tannins. Dry finish. Full of prunes and blackfruit. It is a harsh tough wine that has been designed for food and aging. A good future seems to await it. 8/10.

And now for the fortified wines. We only tasted the whites.

Plenitude Maccabeu
L 03

This is 100% Maccabeu, a traditional Roussillon grape. The real story is that once the harvest begins the grape are cut and then left on the schist (stones) at the foot of the vine for 21 days. The conditions, heat from the rock, the stong wind and sunshine dry them out and add a natural complexity to the sweetness. Light gold. Great light marmalade nose, with an under cut of bitterness. Burnt orange but delicate. Great complexity and balance. Very good. 8.5/10

Vintage Blanc
Maury 2003

100% Grenache gris. Very closed dry nose but opens up very well when tasting. Not to sweet and hint of orange and tropical fruits. Designed to accompany fois gras. Very good. 8/10.

To finish off now the oxidised fortified wines. The key here is after a months maeration the wine is put into big glass bottles (demi-johns) and left outside! The wines that we taste are all blends of different years to produce a uniformity in the style of cognac or malt. They are all 100% Grenache.

Curvee Special 6 ans d’Age.

Burnt brown colouring. Rancid nose from the oxidisation. Powerful nose but the taste is still quite light and easy. More of an aperitif. Good. 7.5/10.

Curvee Special 10 ans d’Age.

Much darker chocolate red. After the year outside it has spent 9 in large vats. Same nose but much more expression on the taste. Biscuit, almonds. Long finish. Great.8.5/10.

Curvee Special 15 ans d’Age.

Lighter as time has diminised the colour. Great rancid bitter nose. Burnt fruits, biscuit. Really challenging. Superb complexity and a very long finish. Excellent. 9/10.

Carcassonne 2

2007-04-10T19:39:00.000+01:00

Friday evening, after picking Nancy up we headed for a look around La Cité.

Nothing can prepare you for the majesty of the place. It has a rich history since pre Roman times and has stood as a mighty bastion on the French side of the Spanish/ Aragon border. Its also been the site of a good many invasions from the English to the anti Cathar crusades. Now its the scene of many of the Dan Brown genre of books including the Labyrinth (Jenny's Christmas present). And yes I know it was largely rebuilt 150 years ago but so what, its stunning.

A few pictures are below.

And yes its very touristy and is full of children attacking each other with plastic swords, but still the narrow streets inside still retain a charm.

For dinner after a bit of wondering around and the fact that we wanted to eat early as had an hour and half drive back to Perpignan, we settled on the L'Arbre de Vie on one of the small squares at the beginning of Rue de Pue. It was a very good meal. I was determined to try Cassoulet, the famous Languedoc dish. This is a stew of haricot blanc with pork, sausage and a leg of pigeon. Very tasty and filling. Like the local version of a Lancashire hotpot.

Limoux

2007-04-10T18:37:00.000+01:00

As I was off on Friday and Nancy was not due to land until 5pm I decided to take my time driving up to Carcassonne and go the scenic route. Partly to recon for the next day and also to explore. the drive followed the Agly river up the valley through the Maury region and through a gorge into the Aude valley in Languedoc. As you head north towards Carcassonne the valley starts to flatten out and the vineyards reappear. The region I now was entering was Limoux.

Limoux is most famous for is sparkling wine, it is in fact claiming to be the oldest sparkling wine in the world, in production since the 16thC. Approaching Limoux from the south is a bit of a disappointment and as often happens the town that gives its name to the appellation is a bit of a disappointment. The region really come alive around Saint-Hilaire. On the hills to the south of the valley vineyrads are forced into all the little dells and dips.

Saint-Hilaire is also the best place for general tourism with with its 16thC monestry. The feel is very rustic and is a good place to get ot of thecar and wander.

Back to the wine. There are four classifications of wine.

La Blanquette de Limoux
This is a sparkling wine made in the champagne method and must have a minimum of 90% Mauzac, the local grape. The remaining 10% can be made up of Chenin and Chardonnay.

Le Crémant de Limoux
A slightly more complicated set up here and it uses more of the more famous international grape. No more than 90% can be made from Chenin and Chardonnay, of which between 20% and 40% must be Chenin. The remainder can be Mauzac or Pinot Noir, but no more than 20%.
It also must be stored for longer than 15 months before release.

La Blanquette Méthode Ancéstrale
This is 100% Mauzac and has lot sof strange and 'mysterous' rules to make it. Something about it can only be made in May! Tends to be sweet and is difficult to get hold of outside the region.

Limoux Blanc
Now we are on to the still wines. This must be a blend of Chardonnay, Mauzac and Chenin.

Limoux Rouge
Not much is made but at lest 50% must be Merlot, which is a bit odd for the Languedoc.

The two best known wineries from the area are Antech and Chateau Rives-Blanques.

I tried some from less well known wineries.

Domaine de Martinolles
Limoux Blanc 2005

I tasted this will in Limoux and then stumbled across the winery while driving past St Hilaire. This was described as 100% Chardonnay which kind of blew the regulations apart. Simple not oaky Chardonnay. Apple and a touch of melon. Good value as only 3.50€ a bottle. Ok. 7/10.

Verges
Blanquette de Limoux

Light but really bubbly wine. Easy to drink and very smooth. A good party sparkly. No more and no less. Good value as well at only 5.20€. 7.5/10.

Great French Wine Encounter 2007 (4)

2007-04-09T19:11:00.000+01:00

Great French Decanter Wine Encounter Part 4

Chateau de la Gardine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape/ Lirac
Rhone
www.gardine.com

The Brunel’s are a traditional winemaking family and wine making has been in the blood since the 17thC. Chateau de la Gardine was established inn 1948 by Gaston Brunel, passed down via Philippe, to the current business run by Maxime, Patrick and Philippe. The business was expanded in 1998 when the family bought Chateau Saint-Roch in Lirac, on the opposite side of the Rhone.

Chateau de la Gardine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004

This is the basic CdP but along with the top label is made from 100% Grenache, which is unusuel for this wine. It is from the younger vines and those not up for the top label. Earthiness and rustic feel through the nose. Good blackfruits and chewy level of spices and pepper. A very typical and traditional CdP. Very good. 8/10.

Chateau de la Gardine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2004

This CdP blanc is a blend based mainly around Grenache Blanc but also Clairette and Roussane. Closed nose not giving much identity away. Totally different on taste as very expressive. Thick viscus wine. Good complexity of taste. Touch of tropical fruits and also apple and melon. Very good. 8.5/10.

Cuvée des Generations
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004

This is the top label and is from a specific cuvee. Its is made from the oldest vines some dating back 100 years. It has seen significant time in new oak barrels. Nearly jet black and deep. Though still very young and the oak still hasn’t settled down and dominates a touch too much, it gives enough fullness and wonderful waves of cassis, fig, pepper to show that, while very good at the moment it will develop superbly. Excellent. 9/10.

Cuvée des Generations
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

The same wine but from the latest vintage that was about to be released. The flavours are all there but the influence of the new oak masks them too much to really get a feel for how good it will be. The owners were very enthusiastic on its future. 8/10.

Chateau Saint-Roch
Lirac Blanc 2005

This like its CdP sibling is a blend dominated by Grenche Blanc, the main difference here is that 10% Viognier is added. It’s a plae but bright yellow. Elegent perfumed nose and good complexity of flavours through apple to peach, showing the viognier influence. Very good. 8/10.

Chateau Saint-Roch
Lirac Rouge 2004

From a specific and protected vineyard its a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. A big burnt toast nose. No oak but this toastiness comes through naturally. This gives way to big chewy tannins which dominate a touch too much at present. Good but may develop into something better. 7.5/10.

Chateau Saint-Roch
Cuvée Confidentielle
Lirac Rouge 2005

This is a barrel sample an dis made from Grenach, Syrah and Mourvedre but the exact details are not given, hence its name. From very concentrated grapes and then spends time in oak vats. Dark deep colour. Full of cherrys and an under current of sweetness. Good. 8/10.

Chateau Saint-Roch
Cotes du Rhone 2004

This is a blend dominated by Grenache (70%) and topped up with Syrah and Cinsault equally. Dark but clearer red than the Lirac/ CdP. Sweet spicy nose. Ull of peppery spices. Complex levels of taste and long finish. Better than the Lirac. Very good. 8.5/10.

Chateau Mas Neuf
Costieres de Nimes
Languedoc
www.chateaumasneuf.com

This is one of the top wineries of the Nimes appellation which sits at the bottom of the Rhone, hence being part of Languedoc. Its been making lots of positive waves since being taken over by Luc Baudet in 2000. The only problem here was that it was being shown on the same stand with a Roussillon producer called Puig Paradis that was pretty poor. More details on that afterwards.

Tradition
Costieres de Nimes 2005

This is a blend of Syrah (60), Grenache (20) and then Mourvedre and Carignan, and had spend nine months in old oak barrels Earth nose with lots of red berries. The earthy rustic feel comes through in taste. Good wine but tasting was partly killed by the rubbish tasted before. Looks a good value wine as sell around £6 in UK. 7.5/10.

La Mourvache
Costieres de Nimes 2005

This is an equal blend of 50 year old vines of Mourvedre and Grenache from a vineyard called Combe Neziere. Highly concentrated flavours with good sweet cassis porty nose. Plums and cherry on tasting. Lots of chewy tannins to give it backbone nad long finish. Very good. 8/10.

Armonio Rouge
Vin de Pay d’Oc 2003

This was made in combination with Louis Mitjavile, a winemaker from St. Emillon. The grapes were all grown and picked by Mas Neuf and then he took control of the cellar and storage. Its an unusual blend of Grenache (0%) and then equal measures of Merlot and Cabernet. Only a small quantity was produced, 6000 bottles, and this had spent 21 months in new oak barrels. Dense black red. Big menthol nose. High grippy tannins. Harsh big wine. Full of flavours. Very good. 8/10.

The following was also on the stand but I can find no more information about it. There is nothing on the importers website (www.jascots.co.uk) or anything on internet. I then finally tracked it down as its should be spelt Puig Parahy (and not Puig Paradis). Appartently they are better known for there fortified wines which is just as well.

Puig Parahy
Roussillon

Fort Saint Pierre
Cotes du Roussillon 2003

Grenche based blend. Weak. Normal restaurant house wine. 6/10.

Georges
Cotes du Roussillon 2005

This is a blend of old vine Carignan and Grenache. Easy taste but nothing more. If £2.99 from Tesco then would be about right. 6/10.

Mont Tauch
Tuchan
Corbieres
Languedoc
www.mont-tauch.com

This is a cooperative but is proberbly the most successful one in the world. Its based in Tuchan tucked up in the south of Corbieres hill right on the border with Roussillon. Its supplied by some 7000 different vineyards, this may seem a lot but a drive around the twisty roads in the area will show just how small some of the vineyards are. Its wine is split between the appellations of Corbieres and Fitou, as well as some Vin de Pays. Its definitely on my list of wineries to visit during my time in the area so a more detailed article will follow. And its pretty much available from all UK supermarkets and the value is exceptional.

Fitou 2005

This is an everyday easy wine. Its full of fruit but has enough structure to accompany most foods. It’s a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah . Spicy pepper holds together very well. Great value at £4.99. 7/10.

Corbieres 2006

The equivient wine from its Corbieres based growers. This is a blend of Carignan and Grenache. Similarly easy drinking but with enough truth to its identity. Same price and same great value.7.5/10.

Les Douze
Fitou 2005

Each year the twelve best growers are selected to work together to produce a top quality Fitou. Again easy drinking wine. Smooth. 7.5/10.

Les Quatre
Fitou 2004

This is produced by four growers, who all have plots in the Le Pilou vineyard, one of the top Fitou vineyards. It is one of the highest vineyards, with ideal soil and exposure to the sun near the village of Paziols. The grapes are vinified together and is a blend of Carignan and Grencahe, and part is matured in oak barrels for 9 months. Big jump up in style and substance. Full on earth farmyard smell. Taste weaves together very well. Sweet cherry cassis. 8.5/10

L’Exceptional
Fitou 2004

Thisis a bigger more powerful wine made from the top vineyards from the Fitou area. It’s a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. The grapes are hand picked at full maturity and selected from only the best locations on the hills around Tuchan and Paziols. The vine are all aged some as much as 80 years. The other main difference is the significant amount of oak aging that has occuered with both the Syrah and Carignan spending 12 months in oak barrels. Interesting complex but oaky nose. Rich fruity flavours with a light but important tannic structure. The oak is a bit to much at present but will reduce over time. I preferred Les Quatre for current drinking but time may reverse this. 8/10.

Domaine Forca Real
Roussillon
www.forcareal.com

This winery is located some 20km west of Perpignan, on the site of an old military garision from when it was still part of Spain. It was started by Jean Paul henriques in 1965.

Domaine Forca Real
Cotes du Roussillon Village 2005

This is a blend mainly of Grenache and Syrah but a little Mourvedre is also added. Earthy powerful nose. Black fruit and a good tannic layer to give it legs for a number of years to come. Very good. 8/10.

Les Hauts de Forca Real
Cotes du Roussillon Village 2004

An increase in style and quality. This is blended from low yielding Syrah and Mourvedre, and is aged in oak for 20 months. Again an expressive nose. More farmyardy and rustic quality. Very good. 8.5/10.

La Linea 2005

A sample of a new wine. There are no details on the website but it’s a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache. Great expressive, sweet nose. Very interesting layers of flavours. Redberries and cherry. Interesting wine. 8/10.

Carcassonne

2007-04-09T15:57:00.000+01:00

As said earlier Nancy has been over this weekend. I picked her up from Carcassonne airport and we went to Le Cite. This is the old medival town, all be it most was reconstructed in the mid 19th century. Still stunning....

Great French Wine Encounter 2007 (3)

2007-04-08T18:55:00.000+01:00

Great French Decanter Wine Encounter Part 3

Chateau Mont-Redon
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
www.chateaumontredon.fr

This winery is new to me but from searching on the web it is based in centre of Chateauneuf and has been making wine for donkeys years.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005

Big forward wine with a nose full of pear. It is in CdP style a blend with the leading grapes Grenache Blanc and more local grapes of Bourboulenc and Clairette. Good dose of steel inerality and a bitter finish give it substance. Good. 7.5/10.

Cote du Rhone Blanc 2005

This blend was stated on the stand as being a blend clairette and Grenache but the website says there is a healthy dose of roussanne in it. This is an off dry style and I did rather enjoy it. It has a good spectrum of taste and builds in the mouth from a sweetish start to a dry finish. Very good. 8/10.

Cuvee du Vatican
Chateauneauf-du-Pape

Cuvee de Vatican
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005

Traditional blend. Off dry style. Works ok and it is still very young. A bit to much oak for me at present. 7/10.

Cuvee de Vatican
Reserve Sixtine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005

Again a blend but dominated by 70% Roussanne. It has also been barrel aged. Acidic and much more challenging. More body. Citric tastes come through along with peach. Good. 7.5/10.

E.Guigal
Rhone Valley
www.guigal.com

And now to the highlight of the show. This is one of my favourite wineries in the world. The highlight is around their winery in Cote Rotie at Chateau d’Ampuis. I even had the pleasure of speaking to the great man himself Marcel Guigal. Formed in 1946 and Marcel Guigal has lead the way since the early 1960’s. His son Phillippe, who I sgradually taking over the reins was also on the stand.

E.Guigal
Condrieu 2005

Condrieu is 100% Viognier. This is from the traditional hand cropped very steep sloops tucked around the Rhone. Still very young and only just released. Light delicate perfumed nose. Lovely balance between sweetness and bitterness. Full of flowers and fruit, apricot really does come through. Really plays with the taste buds. Very good. 8.5/10.

E.Guigal
Hermitage Blanc 2003

This blend is dominated by Marsanne assembled from mature vineyards in Les Rocoules, Les Beaumes, and Les Murets, with a touch of Roussanne. Big bursting nose full of honey. Dry but big bodies and structured. Some oak influence but works well. Full food white and it lasts for ages. Very good. 8/10.

E.Guigal
Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2004

Pleasent spicy peppery nose. Smooth with black fruit. This is the Guigal everyday wine and works very well. Very typical of the base flavours of Syrah and Grenache. 7/10.

E.Guigal
Saint-Joseph Rouge 2003

This appellation is still northern Rhone but at the bottom of the region. This is 100% Syrah. Deep and harsh. Tannins and chewy. Tight grip around the mouth. Black fruits. Big wine at nearly 15%. These grapes are from more recent acquired vineyards as the Guigal empire has expanded south. Good. 7.5/10.

E.Guigal
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003

This is right at the southern limit of Guigals range. It’s a Grenach dominated blend. Better balanced and smoother wine. Deep red. Full of spices and pepper. Good but there are better C-d-P about. 8/10.

Brune & Blonde du Guigal
Cote-Rotie 2003

Cote-Rotie is what Guigal is all about an dits from these steep and roasted sloops that the great man produced some of the great wines in the world. This is one of the more accessable examples. Its Syrah with a small quantity of Viognar (6%). The grapes are from two famous vineyards, Cote Brune and Cote Blonde, and the vines are over 30 years old. Silky smooth almost velvet to start. Packed full of pepper, herbs and black fruit. Tannins kick in later to give a dry finish. Complex. Wonderful. 9/10.

Chateau d’Ampuis
Cote-Rotie 2003

Chateau d’Ampuis is how Guigal’s top wines are labelled. This wine is taken from the best crus of the Brune and Blonde vineyard. As with all Cote-Rotie is Syrah with a touch of Viognier. This jump up is quality is superb. Nose is full of spice and the oak influence waves through but in harmony. An earthy farmyardish feel is there. It starts almost creamy and then an explosion of taste kick in. Blackcurrent, prunes. And then a grippy tannic finish. Brilliant. 9.5/10.

Chateau d’Ampuis
La Turque 2003

This is from a specific grand cru and the 2003 is one of the truly great Rhone wines. Its built to last and develop for the next 30 odd years. As ever it’s a Syrah with this year 7% Viognier added. Pepperand spice through the nose. Ripe full packed explosive. Black cherry. Tannins to give it legs. Brilliant. I had always wondered what a 100pt wine (as marked by Parker tastes like) and now I know. Like any of the best wine above but more so. 9.5/10.

Weekend in Perpignan

2007-04-07T16:03:00.000+01:00

Amazinglg as have been working here for nearly four months this is my first weekend staying in Perpignan. nancy is down and we are having a long weekend. And amazingly, after the grotty weather recently the weather is fine.

The plan, and more details will follow, were to pick Nancy up last night from Carcassonne and have dinner there. This morning head off inland for a wine tasting, a visit to a Cathar castle and then lunch in a recommended restaurant in Maury. This evening over to friends by the coast for dinner. Tomorrow we are heading along the coast to Colliuere and Banylus.

As I said more details of what we have been up to to follow.

A quite tasting note from this week.

Chateau de Jau
Cotes du Roussillon Blanc 2005

On the western border of Roussillon where the Agly valley meets the Corbiére hills. This is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne and Roussanne. I hadn’t heard of the winery but it seems to be very well known in US with lots of good reviews all be it mainly for its red wine. It all so seems to be the site of a well known restaurant.

Picked the bottle up at Carrefour in Perpignan for 5.50€ ass was on offer. Easy but meaty style as typical of local whites. It’s seen some oak and this comes through more on the nose than on tasting. Nice balance of tropical fruits. Good every day wine.

Somontano

2007-04-04T19:44:00.000+01:00

As I said in my last post I am focusing, for the next week, on Spanish wine from either just over the border or from Murcia where I am also working. To start the region called Somontano. This is in Aragon on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees, close to Andorra. It seems close enough to plan a visit, maybe on one of those Tuesday fete days in France.

It is one of the great up and coming wine regions in Spain and combines both traditional Spanish grapes with the main French grapes especially Cabernet Sauvignon. On the white front there is good quality Chardonnay as well as, and most intriguingly Gewertztraminer.

The two most well known wineries are Vinas Del Vero and Enate, and its with the former that we start.

Vinas del Vero
Crianza 2002
Somontano

This winery is based in Barbastro and was established in 1986. It was in the front of the appellation rise. It has introduced many of the international varieties but still in combination with the best Spanish ones. This wine is a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, and has seen eight month in oak barrels.
Opaque blood red. The nose has a cherry start with signs of vanilla from it time in oak. Slight porty finish. The cherry develops into a more burnt taste. Good level of tannins gives in a chewy harsh finish and it should takes well to red meat. It was drunk along side lamb and worked well. Very good introduction to the area. 8/10.

Senorio de Lazan
Reserva 2001
Somontano
Bodgea Pinineos

This time the blend is from Tempranillo, Cabernet and then Moristel. Its classified as Reserva and has been aged in american and french oak for 14 months and then in the bottle for a further 2 before release.This is a deep red blood cheer colour. The nose and taste is more deeper, and prunes is the dominant flavour. Some tannins but in balance with the wine. It just about works. I couldn't get to enthusiastic by this wine, but it is ok. 7/10.